00:02 if you're around my age there's a good
00:03 chance your entire life you've watched
00:05 your dream of owning a house go from
00:06 what seemed like a near
00:08 certainty too completely out of reach
00:12 person and to be honest I'm tired of
00:14 letting that get me
00:18 down in this video I'm taking my first
00:20 step towards moving out of my parents'
00:22 basement and building something I've
00:24 been designing for years a house with no
00:27 fixed location but no compromise on
00:32 a place to finally call
01:08 so I'm starting off this build with a
01:09 good custombuilt trailer that's
01:11 specifically made for tiny
01:13 homes this trailer is over with that 11x
01:16 30 ft and I decided to go over with
01:18 because I'm a pretty big guy and by the
01:20 time I closed in a 8' 6 room I'd barely
01:23 be able to lay down horizontally plus
01:25 this is going to be a fairly big unit
01:26 that's not really made to travel it'll
01:28 just move when I move which be like
01:30 every few years so it's not that big a
01:31 deal to get a wide load
01:34 permit the trailer has three 7,000lb
01:37 axles and weighs about 3,000 lb itself
01:39 which gives me 18,000 lb to build my
01:41 home on which should be more than
01:51 enough so the first thing I'm doing is
01:53 cutting off a couple of these stabilizer
01:57 receivers this is going to be the front
01:59 end of my tiny any house right where the
02:00 door is so I'm going to move these over
02:02 to the side and I'm not going to go into
02:03 a ton of detail on this because I could
02:05 have just ordered it right right from
02:07 beginning but basically I'm just cutting
02:09 off this receiver with a cutof wheel on
02:11 my angle grinder and then I'm welding it
02:12 on to a section of this 3in x/4 in
02:18 tubing and then welding that onto the
02:28 frame then I just used some Rust primer
02:30 and paint and that's good as
02:38 new now on to the actual build I have
02:41 this 2-in rigid foam insulation that I'm
02:43 going to cut up to insulate this floor
02:45 so I cut this out using a rip jig with
03:03 as well as just some good sharp
03:06 knives so I was making sure to cut them
03:08 pretty snug and then I'd Mallet one
03:10 piece into place and then I'd use some
03:12 expanding foam to seal around all the
03:13 edges and act as an
03:17 adhesive and then I'd hammer in another
03:20 section of 2-in foam until it was level
03:23 Framing and I did this along both sides
03:37 before I add the insulation in the
03:38 center I have to raise up these ribs to
03:40 be the same height as the rest of the
03:41 floor so I'm just using my table saw to
03:44 cut up some 2x sixes into these 2in
03:58 sections and then I'm basically just
04:00 adding these onto the ribs as an
04:01 extension so that all the framing
04:03 sitting at the same height and it's good
04:13 subfloor I fasten these into place using
04:16 some way forhead tapping
04:28 screws now before I add in all these
04:31 ribs I have to add in a couple pipes in
04:32 the floor that's going to be the drain
04:34 for my kitchen sink bathroom sink and
04:36 shower so I just have some standard inch
04:38 and 1 half ABS piping and I'm using some
04:41 yellow ABS cement to glue on some elbow
04:44 fittings and just extend these pipes
04:46 that they're poking out of the floor so
04:47 I can tap into them
04:58 later so I sloped all these pipes down
05:01 to one point which will be under the
05:03 shower and then I cut a hole through the
05:05 steel belly pan and then this will be
05:07 the main out for the drain that I can
05:09 tap into a septic bed or whatever I come
05:11 up with later to get rid of this
05:14 water I just screwed those pipes in
05:17 place using some steel strapping and
05:19 then I'm ready to add the rest of those
05:23 ribs before I get to insulating this I'm
05:26 just drilling a wee pole in each section
05:28 so that any water that gets in here can
05:32 escape and then I'm ready to cut up a
05:38 foam so I'm pretty much insulating this
05:40 in the exact same way the only
05:42 difference is this is actually an inch
05:43 thicker here so I added this one extra
05:45 section of 1in foam
05:58 board I tried to be as exact as I could
06:01 with the cuts but there was ultimately
06:02 going to be some gaps so I just use
06:04 expanding foam to seal all those
06:17 up and that's the floor insulated and
06:19 ready for some subfloor it has an
06:21 insulation rating of r25 and they
06:24 usually recommend about R40 for floors
06:26 and houses but this is a tiny house and
06:28 you're going to have to cut some corn so
06:29 whether you like it or
06:35 not so now it's time to add the subfloor
06:37 and I have these 3/4 in chipboard tongue
06:40 and groove subfloor panels I usually
06:43 hate working with OSB and I kind of
06:44 ordered these accidentally but they were
06:46 here and they seemed fine so I'm going
06:47 to use them for the floor
06:52 anyway so I marked out and cut my first
06:54 sheet and then before I lay this down
06:56 I'm going to spread out some foam
06:57 construction adhesive along the steel
06:59 steel frame this will just let the wood
07:02 tack onto the steel a little better and
07:03 get rid of any creaking floor or
07:10 that then I laid the panel in place
07:12 making sure it was perfectly Plum with
07:14 the trailer and I screwed it into the
07:16 steel framing using some smaller Waf
07:23 screws I also added in a bunch of deck
07:26 screws every foot or so along all of the
07:35 to cut all of my plywood panels I use
07:37 this track saw jig for my circular saw
07:39 so basically I could just measure out
07:41 two marks with my tape measure and then
07:42 use the track to bridge them and then I
07:44 can just cut right along with the
07:46 circular saw and I don't have to follow
07:47 any lines or Draw any lines and it just
07:49 makes everything a lot faster and
07:53 easier so this tiny house build is
07:55 actually the whole reason I started
07:56 doing YouTube a few years ago I was so
07:58 fed up with at the hosing market and the
08:00 longer I waited the further I got behind
08:02 when I finally decided to pull the
08:04 trigger on building a tiny home I had
08:06 not nearly enough money to even start
08:08 the process so I thought how could I
08:10 maybe make this worthwhile financially I
08:13 had heard a lot of people made some
08:14 money on YouTube but I honestly didn't
08:16 really think it was that realistic of a
08:18 thing but I have a background in Film
08:19 Production so I figured hey if I'm
08:21 building stuff anyway I might as well
08:23 just start filming it and then maybe
08:24 once I start building my tiny house I
08:26 could have like 10,000 followers and
08:27 then possibly one day my job would be on
08:44 YouTube now it's time to start framing
08:46 up my walls so for framing I'm just
08:49 using regular 2x4 lumber and I first cut
08:52 up the bottom and top plate for a
09:09 and then I'd go ahead and Mark out all
09:11 the stud placement according to the
09:13 blueprint I'd basically Mark out all the
09:15 Jack and King studs for doors and
09:17 windows and then all the middle studs I
09:19 just do 16 in on Center starting from
09:21 one end of the wall with all the studs
09:23 marked on one board I'd just use a
09:25 square to quickly transfer that over to
09:30 and then in every wall I have a bunch of
09:31 these studs that are all the same length
09:33 so I went ahead and cut out a bunch of
09:35 those in this case it's 7 3 and a
09:38 12 by the way the blueprints for this
09:41 exact tiny h house are going to be on my
09:42 website for free and the links on the
09:44 description below I think it's criminal
09:46 what's going on with hosing right now so
09:48 I'm hoping this video can Inspire some
09:49 people to think outside the box and find
09:51 a solution that works for you even if it
09:57 house with all the studs cut to size I
10:00 set them in place and then I'm nailing
10:01 all this framing together using a
10:03 framing nailer and some 3 and 1/4 in
10:14 nails then I cut up the Jack studs and
10:17 nailed them into the bottom plate and up
10:19 the stud itself into the king stud
10:40 then I confirm my header size is the
10:42 same size my blueprint says which is 6
10:43 and 1/2 in and then I ripped a 2 by8 on
10:46 my table saw and cut it to
10:55 size and then nailed in two of these
10:57 boards as the header for my door doors
11:12 windows if I couldn't nail the header
11:14 into place through the stud I would just
11:16 toenail it like this and I only put two
11:17 in here but I would usually put in three
11:19 or four and I did that all later I guess
11:21 I also nailed the two header boards
11:23 together using about four vertical Nails
11:26 every foot or so down the header and I
11:28 don't have a clip that
11:31 unfortunately one last thing in this
11:33 wall I added in these short
11:35 studs and then the seill plate for the
11:36 window just to complete out that framing
11:38 for the window with that done I measured
11:41 this rough opening of the window and
11:42 confirmed it with the spec sheet of the
11:44 window probably five times so that I
11:46 made sure this was right and I wouldn't
11:48 have to fix it later
11:49 on and that's one wall complete now it's
11:52 time to start working down the
11:57 side so I first made up this super
11:59 simple wall using some more of those 7t
12:04 studs and then I made up another section
12:07 of this wall that's a little bit shorter
12:08 because this is going to be sitting on
12:40 this next section of wall is going to be
12:42 2 ft higher than the previous walls and
12:43 then I also have this Step at the bottom
12:45 where the wheel well is going to drop
12:47 off back to the bed of the trailer I
12:49 also had to frame three of these small
12:50 Windows into this wall so I use multiple
12:52 headers and some spacer studs to get
12:54 this done then I framed up the last
12:56 section of this wall so there's going to
12:58 be four of these sections in total to
13:00 complete one sidewall and then I'll nail
13:01 these all together once they're all
13:08 erected so it took me 2 Days in total to
13:10 frame all the walls and that's including
13:12 filming time which takes quite a bit
13:14 longer so you could probably do this in
13:15 a day especially if you had an extra
13:30 I actually find this part of the build
13:31 really satisfying because you make a lot
13:33 of progress within about a week's time
13:35 so now I have all of my walls ready to
13:40 up but before I do that I'm adding my
13:42 four corner Jacks and I'm going to spend
13:44 a good amount of time getting this
13:45 trailer bed as absolutely level as
13:48 possible you want this to be level in
13:49 pretty much every area because the
13:51 squareness of this entire build depends
13:53 on a level trailer once we put up the
13:55 walls we'll be leveling them and as long
13:57 as the trailer is perfectly level the
13:58 walls will be perfectly Square to the
13:59 trailer then next I just marked out some
14:02 half2 in ticks to set these walls back
14:04 at/ in from the trailer
14:06 Edge and then I used a chalk line to
14:15 line then I put a bit of expanding foam
14:18 along where the Wall's going to sit as
14:19 some seill insulation and started
14:21 lifting the wall sections into
14:25 place you're going to need a hand when
14:27 doing this because some of these walls I
14:29 don't know maybe 300 lb or so I'm just
14:32 temporarily screwing each wall into
14:33 place using some of these self-tapping
14:39 screws and then these will get replaced
14:41 out with big 1/2 in bolts once all the
14:53 up to support each section of wall I'm
14:56 driving a steak into the ground and then
14:59 I'm just using a scrap 2x4 to brace up
15:01 to the wall wherever it's
15:22 level and then we just kept installing
15:24 the wall sections and in a pretty short
15:26 period of time of a few hours went from
15:29 just having a blank trailer to something
15:30 that's getting pretty close to looking
15:32 like a building I'll be able to move out
15:33 of my parents' basement soon God that'd
15:40 awesome where the sections got nailed
15:42 together I'd just sink a nail every foot
15:45 so and then I'd come up on the other
15:47 side of the stud and sink another set of
15:49 nails every foot or so so that there's
15:51 two sets with opposite angles and kind
16:18 with all the walls in place and braced
16:20 I'm taking out these temporary
16:23 screws and then I'm drilling through a
16:30 and then using these 1/2 in stainless
16:35 washers and then this nylon lock nut to
16:40 down I'd sink the bolts as tight as I
16:43 could with the impact and then give them
16:44 one last burst of some man
16:55 energy I put one of these bolts probably
16:58 about every 2 or 3 ft down every wall
17:00 which is way Overkill but hey they're
17:02 cheap and it's better than these walls
17:08 frame now you want to do just one last
17:10 check that everything's level and make
17:12 any adjustments if you need to and
17:14 that's starting to look like a
17:36 so the next thing I'm doing is adding a
17:37 second top plate with some more
17:44 2x4s and the most important thing with
17:46 these is you want to make sure these
17:47 overlap the gaps where the sections of
17:49 the walls join together this just adds
17:52 quite a bit more support and kind of
17:53 ties all those separate wall sections
18:05 now I'm soon going to start framing up
18:06 the roof but I first have to frame up
18:08 one more little section of wall that
18:09 goes on top of our one end
18:17 wall this has some space for a window in
18:19 it and it also has structural support to
18:21 support the ridge beam that's going to
18:34 the other end's not quite as complicated
18:35 it's really just this 2x4 blocking but
18:37 this is raised up to the exact same
18:39 height as the other ends that the ridge
18:45 level and then before I add the ridge
18:47 beam I'm going to add in a few of these
18:49 6x6 Cedar tie beams these will connect
18:52 the two sidewalls together and keep the
18:54 weight of the roof from bowing out the
18:55 walls and I decided to go with cedar
18:58 even even though four of these 12T beams
19:00 cost $11,200 which is insane but they
19:03 smell and look so good and they're going
19:05 to be a pretty Monumental part of the
19:07 finished interior of the tiny
19:09 house so to cut these I just used a
19:12 regular circular saw and cut along a
19:14 line on all four sides and then just
19:16 used a hand saww to finish up that
19:35 then these are going to screw into
19:37 another piece of 6x6 that extends up
19:39 vertically up to support the ridge
19:41 beam so I marked out some bolt holes and
19:45 drilled them through with a/4 in Long
19:52 bit and then used an inch and a half
19:55 forer bit to make some counter sinks
20:03 as you can hear it was incredibly windy
20:05 this day as it was a lot of days out in
20:06 the middle of this field which made this
20:08 process so much easier so to mount these
20:10 beams into the tops of the walls I'm
20:12 pre-drilling in another 1/4in hole and
20:14 then using some of these 9in long 3/8 in
20:23 bolts holy that was
20:32 God my Cameron tripod almost blew off
20:35 scaffolding probably a dozen times in
20:37 this build but that was definitely the
20:48 closest Once the beam was mounted I
20:50 measured up from the floor to get the
20:52 exact height of the top of the beam so
20:54 that I could cut another piece that'll
20:55 extend upwards and meet the exact same
20:58 height as those blocks we put at the two
21:00 ends that support the Ridge Beamer at
21:02 this is just another step to making that
21:03 ridge beam perfectly
21:05 level then I set this second chunk of
21:08 beam in place making sure it was
21:09 centered and use some more 38 in leg
21:21 bolts then I had two more of these to
21:23 make so I went ahead and started doing
21:27 that an important note is you want to
21:29 individually measure from the floor up
21:30 to the top of each one of these beams
21:32 and then make a custom piece to fit the
21:34 top because each beam has a slightly
21:36 different bow to it and then you can
21:38 make sure that ridge beam is supported
21:40 at the exact same level at all five
22:04 now for the actual ridge beam itself I'm
22:06 using these 9 and 1/4 in by in and 3/4
22:11 beams and I got some fairly long lengths
22:22 this now to secure this beam onto the
22:24 end I have these 4x4 post caps I'm
22:27 screwing into the 2x4 blocking or I'd
22:30 use some strong tie
22:36 nails and for now I've just got some
22:37 scrap 2x4s I'm screwing onto the sides
22:40 of the 6X sixes just so that the ridge
22:42 beam doesn't fall off the edge then I
22:45 started lifting the two longer lengths
22:47 of ridge beam into place and this was
22:49 quite the job for one
22:50 person and of course as soon as I got it
22:52 up there I figured it would actually be
22:54 way easier to measure this out and cut
22:56 it on the ground so I took them down
23:05 so I'm cutting in this indent and this
23:06 is for where the roof is going to
23:08 overhang over the walls and I cut this
23:11 back to be 5 1/2 in so that it's just
23:12 the width of 2x6 overhanging out past
23:15 the walls then this will just get
23:17 covered up with soft it and I don't have
23:19 to cap it or anything on the
23:24 outside so this first side of the ridge
23:26 beam will meet at that Center cater
23:28 beam and then I split the second side of
23:30 the ridge beam into three pieces so that
23:32 the joining points are
23:43 overlapping with all the pieces up I
23:45 nailed the lvls together using more
23:51 nails and I'd do a line of nails about
23:53 an inch apart every foot or so
23:55 alternating sides on each run
24:08 and now that's a pretty Overkill ridge
24:22 is one more thing I did before the
24:24 sheeting goes on is I used a bunch of
24:25 rolls of this steel strapping and just
24:28 screwed together a bunch of the studs
24:29 with diagonal angles just for some
24:33 support I don't know how much this is
24:35 actually going to stop it from moving
24:36 but I've seen lots of people do this in
24:38 other videos so I thought I might as
24:39 well to be honest though the Steel's
24:41 pretty flimsy and I think the plywood
24:43 would offer more lateral support as long
24:45 as it's nailed properly but for the
24:46 price this cost better safe than sorry I
24:48 guess but here's a good clip of how much
24:51 a stud moves that's supported at two
24:52 points and one that's not supported at
24:59 now the next step is I'm going to
25:00 install the sheath thing around all the
25:02 walls I'm just using some halfin
25:04 standard plywood you can use OSB if you
25:06 want it's a little bit cheaper I just
25:08 prefer plywood because it seems more
25:09 soundproof and rigid and it just feels
25:12 like a better constructed home when
25:21 it and then we just set the sheet on
25:23 that little 1/ in ledge we left when we
25:25 put on the walls and just tacked it and
25:27 place with some 2 and 1/2 in framing
25:30 nails then we just started filling in
25:32 all the rest of the sheets also thanks
25:34 to my brother who is around because this
25:36 is definitely not a onean job and he
25:38 helped out whenever I needed some extra
25:44 hands so Shea thing actually doesn't get
25:46 put on tight it has a slight gap between
25:48 all the sheets so I just use one of the
25:50 nails which is about an eighth of an
25:52 inch thick to space the gap between all
25:59 to permanently nail off every sheet I
26:01 would go 4 in between each nail around
26:04 the perimeter of the
26:06 sheet and on the interior studs I'd Mark
26:08 a line with the level and then follow
26:11 this line with nails every 6 in seems
26:14 like a lot of nails and it is but this
26:16 is really what gives everything its
26:17 strength and stops any sheer forces or
26:20 at least so I'm told I really don't know
26:21 I've never built anything even remotely
26:23 close to this before so keep that in
26:25 mind this whole time
26:30 the second layer goes on pretty much the
26:31 exact same way as the first you just got
26:33 to remember not to end your sheet on the
26:35 same stud so that all those gaps are
26:40 offset and we'd also use some spare
26:42 nails to maintain that E8 in gap around
26:45 every edge of the sheet when we're
26:46 setting the top layer in
26:56 place there there's a few ways to cut
26:58 out the windows now but the easiest
27:00 method I've always found is to drill out
27:01 the corners with a drill
27:07 bit and then from the outside I'm going
27:09 to use this Palm rotor and this flush
27:11 trim rotor bit and this will just cut
27:14 through the plywood while the bearing on
27:15 the end of the rotor bit rides along the
27:17 2x4 Framing and won't let me cut in any
27:19 further you get an exact cut to the
27:22 dimensions of the opening in the frame
27:24 and you really don't have to do any
27:36 it's a pretty convenient way to cut out
27:38 a bunch of Windows in short order
27:39 without doing any measuring and these
27:41 rotor bits are only like 30
27:43 bucks oh yeah and did I mention there's
27:45 a lot of Windows to cut out I think
27:47 there's like 16 or 17 basically a Full
27:49 House worths of Windows in 300 ft it was
27:53 also another $220,000 for the windows
27:55 but what are you going to do my basement
27:57 right now now has zero
28:01 windows before I could finish up the
28:03 sheathing I had to finish up framing the
28:05 top of this end wall so I use one of the
28:07 template Rafters I'm going to make up in
28:09 the next step to help me get the angle
28:11 that I can frame this wall
28:13 to and then I framed in the rest of this
28:16 octagon window and added in some
28:53 one last step before I get to framing at
28:55 the roof I'm going to add the house wrap
28:57 right now so we're just going around
28:59 making this as tight as possible and
29:00 just tack it into place with
29:17 staples and then wherever there's a
29:19 vertical seam we use some blue tuck tape
29:25 down then I just cut off any
29:30 excess when you're doing house wrap you
29:32 always want to start at the bottom and
29:34 work your way up that way it has the
29:35 right layering to shed water
29:39 properly again I'm taping the vertical
29:41 seams these horizontal seams don't need
29:43 any because they're overlap properly and
29:45 the water is not going to travel uphill
29:47 to get behind this now I'm going to cut
29:49 a template truss for the steeper part of
29:52 the roof so I have this whole thing
29:53 designed on the computer so I just spit
29:55 out these Dimensions so I don't have to
29:57 to actually measure it on site so first
30:00 I set my miter saw to the angle it said
30:02 which is 33 1/ 12° and then I cut off
30:05 one of the ends of this fresh 8T
30:08 2x6 then I measured from the cut Point
30:11 as long as it said this rafter is
30:12 supposed to be and I cut a second angle
30:26 point now I'm going to cut out this
30:28 bird's mouth so to do that I just
30:30 measured the point where it starts and
30:32 then this drawing told me the length of
30:33 each cut is 2 and 1 e in and 3 and 3/16
30:36 in so I just used a square and measured
30:38 this out with the edge of the
30:40 wood and then Trac the line and cut this
30:42 out with my circular
30:49 saw then I used a reciprocating saw to
30:56 cut now as long as this fits right this
30:58 will be my template for all the other
31:00 Rafters and I won't have to individually
31:01 measure each one which will save a lot
31:05 error and it looks like it's sitting
31:07 along the ridge beam at the perfect
31:09 angle and sitting nicely on the top
31:10 plate so this looks like a good template
31:13 so I took it down and traced it on to a
31:15 bunch of fresh 2x6s just to make a whole
31:22 Rafters it's important when tracing
31:24 these that you always use the same
31:25 template piece and even have the same
31:27 face up so that you're always tracing
31:42 Edge now before I install these Rafters
31:44 I have to mark out the placement so I'm
31:46 just marking out the ridge beam every 2
31:48 ft on Center and I'm putting the ti 3/4
31:51 in off set so that the center of the
31:53 board will be right on the 2T Mark and
31:56 same thing thing with the top
31:59 plate now I can just start installing
32:08 Rafters to mount these onto the ridge
32:10 beam I'm using one of these Simpson
32:13 ties and screwing it in with some
32:16 structural strong tie
32:31 and that's as easy as it is to set these
32:37 place to attach each rafter onto the top
32:40 plate of the wall I'm using the Simpson
32:42 trust screws and these just replace our
32:45 hurricane strap and they're a lot
32:46 quicker option and not that much more
32:49 expensive so they come with this little
32:51 guide so I just set that in place and
32:53 screw and then remove the guide and keep
32:56 sinking this screw until the head isn't
32:59 anymore and that's all we need to secure
33:02 the bottom of each Raptor onto the walls
33:04 that's now a structural connection at
33:06 least that's what the guy at the
33:07 hardware store tells me I really have no
33:08 experience doing any of
33:17 this now I'm just making up a template
33:19 for the second portion of the roof and
33:21 once it fits just making up a bunch more
33:44 when I got to the point that the two
33:45 slopes merged I decided to take these
33:47 structural screws out because they have
33:49 a pretty big popping out head on them
33:51 and replace them with nails and then I
33:53 can just butt this second board up right
33:55 against it and give it a couple
33:57 screws and then I just gave this piece a
34:00 hurricane strap another tip after I put
34:02 up the first few pieces I noticed that
34:04 the overhang wasn't actually the exact
34:06 same for every single rafter so I
34:08 actually started cutting them about an
34:09 inch long and then I just tacked the
34:11 rafters up with one screw and then I
34:13 just use a 2x4 since my preferred
34:15 overhang is 3 and 1/2 in to Mark the cut
34:17 line then I just take them down cut them
34:20 and then put them up permanently and
34:21 then they all have the exact same
34:28 while I was up here I also took off
34:29 those temporary chunks of 2x4 and
34:31 replaced it with a steel
34:47 strap now I set the angle on my circular
34:49 saw at the slope of the roof which is 33
34:51 1/ 12° and I ripped off the edge of a
34:54 2x8 and then I marked out every 2T on
34:56 Center Center and attach these little
35:08 rafter then I snapped a level line and
35:11 screwed up these pieces to continue that
35:13 slope all the way around this higher
35:29 then I ripped an angle into another
35:36 2x8 and I made sure the face on this
35:38 piece was 5 1/2 in just because that's
35:41 the width of a 2x6 and is a pretty
35:42 standard measurement to for getting
35:44 fascia later on and then I screwed in
35:47 these little brace things I made up
35:49 since I'm working alone
35:51 today and I nailed these boards on as
36:16 notice I left a good couple feet
36:18 overhanging out the end of this board
36:20 and that's because I'm going to connect
36:21 this with one more rafter up to the
36:23 ridge beam and be the overhang of the
36:37 now I'm going to create that overhang so
36:39 I'm measuring out how much that Ridge
36:40 bream is protruding out and then
36:42 transferring that onto the fascia board
36:45 then I'm cutting up one more rafter
36:47 using that same old template but not
36:48 cutting in the bird's MTH this
36:55 time and screwing and nailing that in to
36:58 be the fascia board of this Gable
37:16 end then I just squared off a line and
37:18 used a circular saw to cut this board
37:39 at the other end I first nailed on this
37:40 rafter that has a couple of these ribs
37:45 out and then I added on that last rafter
37:55 end then I have a rafter for the lower
37:57 slope part and I'm just tacking this
37:59 onto the end and then screwing this on
38:01 to the face of the rafter below it then
38:04 I went up top and just traced this line
38:06 and then took the board down to cut this
38:15 saw now I can take this board back up
38:18 and nail it in permanently at the
38:21 end and then this is just sitting on the
38:23 rafter below it so I'm just going to
38:25 nail it snug onto that
38:39 now on each of these overhangs I'm just
38:40 adding a couple pieces of blocking that
38:42 extends into the frame of the roof just
38:44 a stutter two and this will just give it
38:46 a little more support on that
38:50 overhang then I also addited these
38:52 couple boards as a rough opening for a
38:54 skylight that's going to be right here
39:04 and I also had to frame in these tiny
39:06 little walls where the slope and the
39:34 and that's the entire framing for this
39:35 tiny has now complete a little more
39:37 sheeting and we're pretty much closed
39:48 in to sheet the roof I'm using that same
39:51 half2 in Plywood And I'm pretty much
39:52 doing this in the exact same method that
40:11 I'd use a scrap piece of 2x4 and screw
40:13 it into the fascia board just so the
40:14 plywood wouldn't go down any further
40:16 than the edge of that board and I nailed
40:19 these sheets down to each rafter with
40:20 about a 4-in gap between
40:35 I also use these sheathing Clips between
40:37 each Rapter which gives me that E8 in
40:39 gap and it also kind of binds the two
40:41 pieces together and gives them a little
40:54 support I'd screw a couple scrap 2x4s
40:57 onto the roof to give me something to
40:58 stand on while we're putting on the
41:00 upper sheets and a lot of these end
41:02 sheets I would leave a little bit long
41:04 and just trim them off with the trim
41:06 router that I used to cut out the
41:07 windows so i' have an exact
41:15 fit and then we just kept picking away
41:17 sheet after sheet also I never really
41:20 knew this about myself but I absolutely
41:22 hated it up there I don't know if it's
41:23 because it could fall through the
41:25 rafters or just SL off the roof or what
41:27 but this day specifically I absolutely
41:34 sucked the good news is we're pretty
41:37 much closed in and while there's a lot
41:38 to do for Cosmetics on the exterior yet
41:40 it's actually fully structurally done at
41:43 this point it's right around Labor Day
41:44 and I'm actually waiting on the roof and
41:46 siding and stuff to come in which is
41:47 going to take about four or 5 weeks so
41:49 I'm going to work on some more pressing
41:53 bit and wow that was a quick month so
41:56 the next step is to waterproof the roof
41:58 and this definitely should have been
41:59 done before I took that monthlong break
42:01 but I didn't have the material on hand
42:03 at the start and once I get working on
42:05 something else I really don't quit until
42:07 it's done and I needed a damn solar
42:09 powered car either way the roof plywood
42:12 was fine exposed to the Sun for a few
42:14 weeks so this is some stick down roofing
42:17 membrane and I'm going to be putting a
42:18 metal roof on here so this is a really
42:20 good thick underlay that is actually
42:22 pretty much waterproof just itself
42:24 pretty straightforward how you put this
42:26 on it's just got a plastic film on the
42:28 back that covers up the adhesive so I'd
42:29 just cut a strip to a rough length
42:31 because the rolls are pretty heavy and
42:32 then we'd set that roughly in place on
42:34 the roof and then we' pull back that
42:35 plastic strip to expose the adhesive and
42:38 just press it down as firm as we
42:43 could a couple things to note you
42:45 obviously want to start at the bottom
42:46 and work your layers up so that it's
42:48 layered properly to shed water and for
42:50 any Corners I just make a cut like
42:54 this and then patch on another piece I'd
42:57 also leave enough excess to stick it 3
42:59 or 4 in up the wall like it is here and
43:01 a lot of people are going to say this
43:02 should be tucked in behind the house
43:03 trra but this stuff's really sticky and
43:05 expands when it gets wet and
43:07 Professional Roofers told me this is
43:08 fine so I guess it's fine if you're
43:11 really watching here you'll notice that
43:12 I'm actually stapling down the lower
43:14 portion of this membrane so I actually
43:16 did this on all the sheets that are down
43:18 near where the drip edge is going to be
43:21 I'd actually leave on about 6 in of this
43:23 white plastic on this lower Edge so that
43:25 the drip edge can be slid underneath
43:26 here and then that plastic can be
43:28 removed and stuck on top of the drip
43:30 edge in a perfect world I'd have all the
43:32 materials here for the roof so I could
43:34 start doing it in the next step but
43:35 that's the way it goes when you're
43:48 stuff now I'm going to start working on
43:50 the sawet and the first thing I have to
43:52 do is just take off these little bits of
43:53 wood that are overhanging past the
43:55 bottom of the fa board so I just use my
43:58 oscillating multi-tool for
44:00 that and then I'm going to square off
44:02 the bottom of these Gables by making a
44:06 box so I'm just cutting a scrap piece of
44:09 wood with that same 33 and 1 12°
44:18 angle and then measuring it to the size
44:20 I want it to be which is that 5 1/2
44:30 then after I make sure that's sitting
44:32 level I can screw and nail that into
44:34 place with some impeccable
44:44 form then I added in these two pieces of
44:47 wood just to complete the bottom edge of
44:51 box I also added in any more boards that
44:53 I'm going to need for when I have to
45:21 since this is such a small space I
45:22 decided not to compromise on any fine
45:25 details I could on the exterior so for
45:27 the sopit I have this clear Cedar tongue
45:28 and groove paneling this stuff is
45:31 ridiculously expensive like $8 a linear
45:33 foot but in my opinion on a small space
45:36 like this I think it's really worth that
45:37 extra time and money to give it any
45:39 detail that'll make it pop
45:46 out so I first ripped one of these
45:49 boards to the starting width I need and
46:00 and then I'm starting at this back end
46:01 because it's always best to start
46:03 somewhere that's not the main focal
46:04 point when you don't know what you're
46:05 doing before I put the S on I just ran
46:08 this wire through here and then ran it
46:09 into the house I'm not hooking it up to
46:11 anything right now I just want this in
46:13 here in case I ever want to add lights
46:14 back here but for right now I'm just
46:16 going to tuck this up in the framing and
46:18 then start nailing on my
46:39 once again this is a pretty small
46:40 rectangular hose so I decided to get
46:42 pretty detailed with my miter cuts and
46:44 make everything pop as much as
46:47 possible I'd also sand every board with
46:49 15 grip before it goes up because it's a
46:51 lot easier to do this on the
47:08 so to nail these boards in I'm using a
47:09 15 gauge nailer and in the first board
47:12 I'd put a nail right up against the wall
47:14 as close as possible and then once the
47:16 sing's installed this nail hole will be
47:18 covered and you won't see anything next
47:20 I'd sink a nail on an angle in through
47:22 the tongue of this board and then once
47:24 the next board is installed this nail
47:27 disappears so any middle boards will
47:29 only need those tongue nails but this
47:30 runs only two boards wide so once I got
47:32 to the end I would just sink a nail as
47:34 close to the edge as possible and then
47:36 once the faas cover goes on this will
47:38 also get covered up and there won't be
47:43 heads with the back end installed
47:45 without a hitch I'm now more confident
47:49 end so I'm first running a wire along
47:51 here and then all along this one side
47:53 since this is kind of the front face and
47:55 there's definitely going to be some
48:09 here so once I got to the middle board
48:11 this board's going to have my first
48:13 light in it so I drilled a 2 and 1/2 in
48:14 hole which is the right size for the pot
48:18 have and these are just an indoor
48:20 outdoor pot light and these have a
48:22 gimbal so I can actually angle these
48:31 so after making sure it fits the hole I
48:33 took the board up to install
48:36 it and then I'm not going to go into a
48:38 ton of detail on installing this light
48:40 because I'll do that more on the next
48:41 video where we start closing in the
48:43 inside and I go over all the
48:46 electrical but basically I just pop the
48:48 light into place and then cut this bulge
48:50 of wire I had just run through the Fram
48:52 in here and then I just stripped each of
48:54 those wires back about a/ in or so and
48:57 then it's pretty simple to connect this
48:59 you just connect all the wires with
49:00 these three-way wire connectors all the
49:03 black wires in one all the white wires
49:05 in one and all the ground
49:24 wires before I could extend this down
49:26 the sidewalls I had to cut these pieces
49:28 of 2x4 and just nail them in place along
49:31 the wall level with the bottom of the
49:33 facial board that gave me something to
49:35 nail to on both ends of these short 5in
49:38 pieces after these short pieces get
49:40 closed in with the side in and then the
49:41 overhang of the fascia covering there's
49:43 really only going to be about 3 and 1/2
49:45 in of this exposed and the lumber for
49:47 this offit cost $2,000 which just gives
49:50 you an idea of how much this clear Cedar
49:52 costs Honestly though it is really a
49:54 statement piece in person that's one of
49:56 the first things that most people
49:59 notice a sofit needs to vent to work
50:02 properly so every fourth piece or so I
50:04 made one of these vent pieces so I
50:06 printed up this 3D printed pilot hole
50:08 template and drilled all the pilot holes
50:10 with a small drill bit then I'd used a
50:13 3/8 in forcer bit and just bore out
50:15 every single one of these holes and I
50:17 had to make about 68 of these pieces it
50:19 took about 5 minutes to make each vent
50:21 so yeah that's pretty much a full day of
50:23 drilling these again though all let that
50:29 detail with a piece fully drilled out I
50:31 would just staple on a piece of window
50:33 screen onto the backside just so bees
50:54 in I installed four more lights along
50:57 this front side sawet and these are
50:59 slightly different than the other lights
51:00 but they're pretty much the exact same
51:02 idea I just needed something a little
51:04 smaller to fit in this narrow
51:08 Gap with the lights and S installed I
51:10 just use some wire nuts to connect this
51:12 onto an old extension cord and then plug
51:14 this into an AC power source just to see
51:18 on and now that's looking pretty
51:22 sweet this Cedar's going to need some
51:24 sort of protective oil but I'm going to
51:26 be doing another Cedar accent piece so
51:27 I'll cover that later
51:37 on so now it's time to start installing
51:40 all of my windows these are all just
51:42 regular house windows with one key
51:44 difference they're all tempered glass
51:46 since this is going to be on the road
51:47 and bouncing around just normal plate
51:49 glass would break pretty easily and
51:51 tempered will be able to stand up to
51:52 those forces so to install these I first
51:55 found one of the window
51:56 openings and then along the side I cut
51:59 just about an inch back from this
52:01 opening same with the bottom in the
52:03 other side and then the top I cut flush
52:05 along the opening then I measured the
52:07 seill which for this window is 29 in and
52:10 then I'm going to cut up a piece of this
52:11 6in flashing tape 6 in longer than that
52:14 measurement so 35 in
52:17 roughly I'd then just stick this onto
52:19 the wall about halfway along the bottom
52:21 of the opening and cut along the edge
52:24 here until I reach this sill and fold
52:32 over I'd then cut another piece the
52:34 exact same length and install this onto
52:37 the sill instead and fold over onto the
52:46 wall and then normally that'd be good
52:48 for flashing tape but there's actually
52:49 something wrong with my windows so on
52:51 this I'm going to install these strips
52:53 of flashing tape along both vertical
52:59 well so I'm not sure where there was a
53:01 miscommunication when I ordered these
53:02 windows but normally every new build
53:04 window has a little piece of plastic
53:06 that comes off the side of the window
53:08 here with a bunch of holes so you can
53:10 nail it into the wall this is called a
53:12 nailing fin or a nailing flange and
53:14 almost every new window has this
53:15 nowadays so I'm not sure why mine didn't
53:17 come and the company itself offered no
53:19 support at all so that's awesome I'm
53:22 going to show you how I installed my
53:23 windows but it's not going to be a much
53:24 use to many people so I'll do another
53:27 one after this that explains with a more
53:30 window so first inside the window
53:32 opening I did install these blocks that
53:34 have the correct spacing that would stop
53:36 the window from going in too far
53:39 normally the nailing flange would do
53:40 that but again you know I'll just
53:42 explain this useless
53:44 information so then I'd use some half
53:46 inch chunks of plywood and then just
53:48 shim them until I could get them
53:50 absolutely as level as possible because
53:52 that's going to save me a lot of work
53:58 so then I'd lift the window into place
54:00 and just kind of make sure it was even
54:01 in both sides of the Gap in the rough
54:04 opening and then with my brother holding
54:06 it snug on the inside I would just check
54:08 the reveal and make sure it was the same
54:11 corners I did the same with the level on
54:14 all four sides making sure they're all
54:17 level and then I just used some Door and
54:19 Window shims to shim this window
54:29 on the inside I just took some normal
54:31 deck screws and then went in through
54:32 this Jam extension and screwed in
54:34 straight through the shims to secure the
54:37 place Windows aren't structural at all
54:39 so these are really only held in with
54:48 screws notice in this clip the shims are
54:50 only along the two sides you never want
54:52 to shim the top or the bottom and then
54:53 depending on the height of the window
54:54 this this one had six shims some of the
54:56 smaller ones would only have four on the
54:59 outside I'd cut away those overhanging
55:02 shims and then the huge problem with
55:04 these windows not having a nailing fin
55:07 was that I'm left with this/ in gap
55:09 around the whole window I could
55:10 literally find no information on filling
55:12 this Gap so I'm just going to do what I
55:14 think will work so I used a bunch of
55:15 flashing tape and I started at the
55:17 bottom and I would just fold this over
55:19 about 3/4 inch onto the frame of the
55:21 window and then stick the rest onto the
55:24 wall so I started with the bottom first
55:27 and then worked up both
55:30 sides online some people suggested using
55:33 a butle cocking to fill this Gap but
55:36 these are pretty wide gaps and have a
55:37 lot of windows so that's more than
55:39 I have to give this
55:43 house once I got to the top I'd cut away
55:46 the house wrap with about a 45° angle
55:48 into both corners of the window and then
55:50 just tape it up out of the way for a few
55:53 minutes and then I'd Flash the top of
55:55 this window the same as I did the three
55:57 other sides again this is really timec
55:59 consuming and it's all because these
56:01 windows don't have a nailing fin so just
56:02 stick around a few minutes I'm going to
56:04 install one that does because there's
56:07 99.9% chance the windows you get are
56:09 going to have a nailing fin but now with
56:11 those sealed up this window will now be
56:12 the same as any other window so I have
56:14 this piece of metal drip edge and I'm
56:16 just cutting it to the exact width of
56:17 the window and then I'm setting this
56:19 down on top of the frame of the window
56:21 and nailing it in place with some inch
56:23 and a quarter roofing nails
56:30 then I'd bring that house wrap back down
56:32 over top and just use some house wrap
56:34 tape to tape along these
56:40 seams back at the bottom I just use a
56:43 knife to cut in a few of these tiny
56:45 little weat poles just so that if any
56:46 water does get in behind this flashing
56:48 tape it can all drain out at the bottom
56:51 and again that's only for my windows not
56:55 and that's an installed window that
56:56 should theoretically shed water
57:05 properly okay so real quick before we
57:07 move on I just bought another window
57:08 from Home Depot that has one of these
57:10 nailing fins and I'm just going to show
57:11 you how to install it really quickly so
57:13 that this video pertains to everybody so
57:16 with my window opening Flash the same
57:17 way I did the other window just minus
57:19 those two strips of vertical flashing
57:21 along the two sides that I don't need
57:23 with this window I did the same thing
57:25 blocking the bottom and making sure it
57:28 level and then I'm just taking my window
57:30 and I'm putting a silicone bead around
57:32 the inside of this nailing fin all the
57:33 way around the whole
57:35 window the only place I don't put any is
57:37 I leave a couple 2in gaps along the
57:39 bottom so that any water that gets in
57:41 behind this window can
57:45 escape then I just set the window into
57:48 place and after I make sure it's level I
57:51 just nail this off with about two or
57:53 three nails per side
57:57 then I'll just take some flashing tape
57:58 and I'll put two strips up along the
58:00 sides as well as one across the top
58:04 after this I did the exact same thing
58:05 with that drip edge and then putting the
58:07 house wrap over top and taping up those
58:09 seams this took about one qu of the
58:11 amount of time I probably could have did
58:12 all the windows in one day in my tiny
58:15 house rather than 4 days if they all had
58:17 this nailing fin but anyway no sense
58:19 crying over spilled milk let's just get
58:21 the rest of these windows
58:22 installed so back to that story story I
58:25 was telling like an hour ago about how I
58:26 got started on YouTube at the time I had
58:29 some failing businesses and I was
58:30 basically just building stuff to make
58:32 any extra cash and then filming videos
58:34 in hopes that maybe that would be an
58:35 Avenue to make some money as well I
58:38 literally had a goal to make like
58:39 $22,000 a month a few years down the
58:42 line so that I could at least buy my
58:43 groceries I noticed there was a huge
58:45 void in DIY videos of actual production
58:47 value and you'd be watching something
58:49 trying to figure out how to do it and
58:50 all of a sudden they would skip forward
58:51 in time and miss the step that you
58:54 really needed to know how to do and it's
58:56 that simple idea that I've tried to keep
58:58 ever since trying to explain every
58:59 single step of the way and show people
59:02 that as long as you have resilience it's
59:03 really not that hard to build whatever
59:05 you could imagine to be honest I've done
59:07 almost none of this before I just watch
59:09 YouTube videos every night and figure
59:11 out what I'm doing the next
59:18 day so now it's time to install my front
59:21 door and the funny thing about this door
59:22 is this actually came with a nailing in
59:24 on it and most of the time they don't so
59:26 I don't know what they were smoking at
59:28 this Window Factory but it's certainly
59:29 not the same stuff I
59:33 am so I cut out the house wrap around
59:36 this door opening pretty much the exact
59:37 same way as the window opening there's
59:41 it and then I use my multi-tool to cut
59:44 away the bottom Board of this wall and
01:00:03 then I just use one strip of flashing
01:00:04 tape along the bottom
01:00:09 here and it didn't really need these but
01:00:11 I added two strips of vertical flashing
01:00:13 because I had done it on all the windows
01:00:19 already now similar to the window I
01:00:21 showed you with the nailing fin I just
01:00:23 use some windows silicone to seal around
01:00:28 Fin and then I placed a good thick bead
01:00:30 of silicone along the front edge of that
01:00:32 door pan as well I also use some P
01:00:34 construction adhesive and put a generous
01:00:36 amount along the back side of that door
01:00:40 pan then we can lift the door into
01:00:48 place now working on the inside I had a
01:00:50 good amount of shims on hand because
01:00:51 this is going to take quite a few and
01:00:53 I'm just shimming the door frame frame
01:00:54 as level as I can get
01:01:01 it and then this door came with a whole
01:01:04 bunch of these pre-drilled pockets for
01:01:06 screws so I just shim in Behind These
01:01:09 and then pre-drill a hole for the screws
01:01:11 they send along with the door and screw
01:01:25 you also have to shim in behind your
01:01:26 hinges and then screw in these long
01:01:28 screws through the hinges as well a door
01:01:32 obviously takes a lot more abuse and
01:01:34 slamming than a window so there's quite
01:01:35 a few screws that need to go in here two
01:01:37 go into every hinge and then I'd say
01:01:39 there's probably about 10 more that
01:01:40 secure the frame elsewhere this takes
01:01:42 quite a bit of tinkering with shims and
01:01:44 screws but after about 10 or 20 minutes
01:01:46 you should be able to get the door to a
01:01:48 point where it opens and closes as
01:01:49 smooth as possible and doesn't drag on
01:01:51 any of the edges and you should have a
01:01:53 pretty even Gap W around the entire
01:01:58 door with the door all functioning
01:02:01 properly I just put in a roofing nail
01:02:03 into this nailing flange every foot or
01:02:05 so around the frame and then I flashed
01:02:07 up both sides in the top of the
01:02:11 door and added that metal drip edge and
01:02:13 overlap the hosing wrap the same way I
01:02:27 now I have some Window and Door
01:02:28 expanding foam and I'm just going around
01:02:30 on the inside filling in all the gaps
01:02:32 between the rough openings and the jams
01:02:38 windows this is a pretty easy
01:02:41 self-explanatory task I just had to be
01:02:43 really careful on the windows that I
01:02:44 didn't overfill and the expanding foam
01:02:47 wouldn't bulge out the flashing tape
01:02:48 since I don't have anything rigid like
01:02:50 the nailing fin to hold it back but
01:02:52 again that most likely is not going to
01:03:00 yours and after that cured up for a
01:03:02 couple hours I could take my multi-tool
01:03:03 and just cut away the
01:03:09 shims and use a good sharp utility knife
01:03:11 to cut off all the excess of this
01:03:31 and hey we're uh starting to look like a
01:03:33 house in here I've literally been
01:03:34 designing this for like 2
01:03:39 years one last step with this door I
01:03:41 just installed a keypad lock and the
01:03:43 handle and these come with directions in
01:03:45 the box so I'm not going to explain you
01:03:46 how to do this cuz this video is already
01:04:02 so now I've just got some normal Cedar
01:04:04 4x4s and I'm going to make up some
01:04:06 timber frame accent piece
01:04:11 things so I'm just cutting up a few
01:04:13 lengths that I need and then I'm just
01:04:15 using my planer just to take maybe a
01:04:17 16th of an inch off of each of these
01:04:20 faces just to give it a nice square look
01:04:21 and not look like it's a Lumberyard 4X
01:04:39 4 then I turn the blade on my table saw
01:04:42 to the 33 and 1/ 12° slope of the
01:04:45 roof and then I'm just taking an edge
01:04:49 4x4s why I didn't have the fence over an
01:04:51 eighth of an inch so it would have cut
01:04:52 this clean through I don't know I guess
01:04:54 guess I just wanted to use the
01:05:00 handsaw then I use my miter saw just to
01:05:03 cut some nice looking angles off of
01:05:05 these pieces by the way I'm using a 60
01:05:08 to finish cut blade on my miter saw
01:05:10 that'll save you a lot of
01:05:13 work so these two pieces are going to go
01:05:15 together in an l and then I'm going to
01:05:16 have another 45° piece connecting them
01:05:19 so I just measured that
01:05:20 up and then I cut those pieces and fed
01:05:23 them through the planer a bunch of times
01:05:25 until they went down from about 3 and
01:05:26 1/2 in square to 2 and 1/4 in square a
01:05:30 band saw would work better if you have
01:05:31 one but I don't so it really wasn't that
01:05:33 big a deal for a 15-minute
01:05:35 job then I cut these thinner pieces to
01:05:38 length with 45° angles at each
01:05:41 end and it should fit in place here
01:05:46 this so after I gave everything a sand
01:05:49 with some 150 grit I started assembling
01:05:52 my two Timber pieces
01:05:54 I decided to do this as simple as
01:05:56 possible because this is like a thousand
01:05:58 step build so I don't want to get any
01:06:00 complicated joinery or anything so I
01:06:03 just pre-drilled some holes and then I'm
01:06:04 just fastening these two main pieces
01:06:06 with some 5in deck
01:06:12 screws then after I made sure it's
01:06:14 squared I marked out the position for
01:06:16 this 45° piece and screwed it in from
01:06:19 the back with some more deck
01:06:23 screws this is just a visual piece it's
01:06:25 not structural at all so these deck
01:06:27 screws are going to be
01:06:35 fine so then I pre-drilled a hole for a
01:06:38 big structural bolt and then use a
01:06:39 forcer bit to make a counter
01:06:44 SN and then I'm going to fasten these
01:06:46 Timber pieces onto the wall using these
01:06:48 structural screws that don't have a
01:06:50 terrible looking head on them because
01:06:52 they're going to be exposed
01:07:07 so I use two of those big structural
01:07:09 screws to screw this into place and then
01:07:11 I just used a few more deck screws in
01:07:13 through the back just to keep the piece
01:07:15 from rotating or
01:07:22 anything and those are some nice little
01:07:25 Timber accent beams
01:07:27 done at this point it's nearly the end
01:07:29 of October and I'm getting pretty
01:07:31 pressed for time here to get this done
01:07:32 before our cold Canadian Winter's set
01:07:37 in so next I'm on to siding and you're
01:07:40 going to notice some of the roof
01:07:41 actually gets put on in the meantime but
01:07:43 I'll cover that later I had to start
01:07:44 kind of combining steps when I could get
01:07:46 help because the winter was coming so I
01:07:49 just have this regular vinyl board and
01:07:51 bat and siding and I have some of this
01:07:53 in white and black but I'll be starting
01:07:55 with the white and the first thing I
01:07:57 need to do is put on these Corner posts
01:07:59 so for this siding company specifically
01:08:01 I had to measure Out 3 in on both sides
01:08:04 corner at the top and bottom of the wall
01:08:07 then I just tacked a nail on one of
01:08:09 these ticks up at the top and use my
01:08:11 chalk line to pull that down and line it
01:08:14 up with the line at the bottom and just
01:08:16 snap myself a nice straight
01:08:25 then I had to measure my corner post to
01:08:27 length and then I cut it out using some
01:08:33 Snips this stuff can be a little tricky
01:08:36 to cut because of all the complex curves
01:08:38 and bends but you can just cut pieces
01:08:40 out of the scrap side of the piece and
01:08:42 then that makes it a lot easier to get
01:08:49 there but in the end the bottom of the
01:08:51 piece looks something like
01:08:56 then I just brought that corner post
01:08:58 over onto the corner of my tiny house
01:09:00 and lined it up with my chalk lines on
01:09:02 each side I'd use a roofing nail and the
01:09:05 first nail I'd put at the very top of
01:09:07 this nailing slot this just holds the
01:09:09 post up tight against this sfit and
01:09:11 allows any expansion to expand downwards
01:09:14 and then all the rest of the nails I put
01:09:16 right in the center of the
01:09:18 slot with siding you also don't nail it
01:09:20 completely tight with these trim pieces
01:09:23 I'm nailing them so that there's just
01:09:24 the ever so slightest amount of play in
01:09:31 them and you should be able to wiggle it
01:09:33 a little bit underneath every single
01:09:35 nail head you don't want to nail
01:09:37 anything tight with s in because it
01:09:39 contracts and expands with the heat so
01:09:41 you'll always want a little bit of room
01:09:43 for it to move with these trim
01:09:45 pieces the next piece of trim I used and
01:09:48 the piece that gets used to trim almost
01:09:50 everything else is called J trim because
01:09:52 it looks like a j so so along the bottom
01:09:54 I'd snap another straight line at the
01:09:56 height I needed it
01:10:00 at and then I'd tack in my J trim at one
01:10:03 end and then starting from the other end
01:10:05 I would just sink a nail every foot or
01:10:07 so riding that J channel as level on
01:10:12 could again I put these nails all in the
01:10:14 center of the nailing slots and left
01:10:16 them just slightly loose so it can
01:10:17 wiggle back and forth a little
01:10:28 this vertical to horizontal transition
01:10:30 has a certain way everything needs cut
01:10:31 to shed the water properly and it's
01:10:33 actually the exact same way you trim the
01:10:35 windows which I'm going to cover in a
01:10:36 couple minutes so you can apply that
01:10:38 information here I also could spend
01:10:40 probably 45 minutes on covering the
01:10:42 siding alone I'm kind of condensing this
01:10:44 so this isn't a 6-hour long video but
01:10:47 I'll put a couple links in the
01:10:48 description below of videos I use to
01:10:49 learn how to side because of course this
01:10:51 is my first time siding
01:10:55 with the jtrim installed along the
01:10:56 bottom of an entire wall I'd just take a
01:10:58 3/16 inch drill bit and just drill some
01:11:00 wheat poles every 18 in or
01:11:07 so so the siding panels need trim on
01:11:10 every single edge so I'm also trimming
01:11:12 up around the top here and again this is
01:11:14 going to use the exact same Concepts
01:11:16 that I'm going to show you trimming out
01:11:17 a window in a minute or two or three or
01:11:20 five this a sixth day of editing driving
01:11:26 by the way maybe 6 hour long videos are
01:11:28 something you're interested in or maybe
01:11:30 15 minute long I don't know let me know
01:11:32 in the comments below what you think if
01:11:34 this is the right length or too long or
01:11:36 Too Short or what you're thinking I just
01:11:38 want to know you
01:11:42 guys so to trim out a window or really
01:11:45 anything else you always start at the
01:11:46 bottom first and I'd measure the width
01:11:49 of our window and then I'd add on an
01:11:51 inch and a half to account for the 3/4
01:11:53 in inch wide J trim that's going to be
01:11:55 on each side so then I'd cut this line
01:11:58 Square using some Aviation
01:12:01 Snips and then I just use a scrap piece
01:12:04 of J trim here to Mark a cut line on
01:12:09 piece then I'd use my Snips again and
01:12:11 make two cuts along the corners here and
01:12:14 then bend this tab back and cut it
01:12:19 off then this piece should sit in place
01:12:22 on the bottom of the window like this
01:12:23 this with the two cutout openings lining
01:12:25 up perfectly with the edge of the window
01:12:28 then I'll just nail in this piece
01:12:29 Loosely for now and measure up the side
01:12:31 pieces I'd do the same thing as the
01:12:33 bottom piece measuring the height of the
01:12:35 window and then adding on that inch and
01:12:37 a half to account for the face of the J
01:12:39 channel at each end and then the top end
01:12:41 I'd cut the exact same as I did that
01:12:43 bottom piece and the bottom end I'd cut
01:12:46 almost the exact same i' just bend that
01:12:48 tab over and then I wouldn't cut it
01:12:54 and then I'd just make a roughly 45° cut
01:12:58 on the face of the
01:13:00 jtrim this tab then slides inside that
01:13:03 bottom piece of J trim and the miter
01:13:05 covers up that seam
01:13:06 nicely I also to paint in the cut off
01:13:09 corners of these windows black later I'm
01:13:10 not sure why they had to be cut off but
01:13:12 if they did why were they not at least
01:13:21 black so I just t the two side pieces in
01:13:24 place with a couple of
01:13:31 nails for the top piece both ends are
01:13:34 cut with that exact same cut I just did
01:13:36 with the tab bent over and the 45° miter
01:13:40 also if it's not sitting quite flush on
01:13:42 top of the window and has a little bit
01:13:43 of an air gap you can just trim down
01:13:45 those side vertical pieces a little bit
01:13:47 until that top piece of J trim sits on
01:13:49 there snug then I'd go around nailing in
01:13:51 all that J trim in about 1 foot
01:13:53 increments and here's a good clip of how
01:13:55 that bent over tab kind of seals up that
01:13:58 gap between the two pieces of trim and
01:14:00 allows as little water as possible to go
01:14:05 through and that's how you trim a window
01:14:07 for siding and the same way you have
01:14:09 trim pretty much everything else on here
01:14:11 siding will never be 100% waterproof and
01:14:13 there's always hose wrap to catch
01:14:15 anything that does make it through the
01:14:22 gaps now with a few walls trimmed I'm
01:14:24 pretty much ready to start installing
01:14:35 panels so the first thing I need to do
01:14:37 with a fresh panel is just measure the
01:14:39 width I needed at and then rip this
01:14:42 lengthwise this is going to be my
01:14:43 starter strip that begins the Run of a
01:15:08 so after I check that that fits with
01:15:10 about a/2 inch of play up and down I've
01:15:12 have take this out so that I can install
01:15:14 some of the seill trim the purpose of
01:15:17 this s trim is to hold this cut Edge in
01:15:19 place and not allow it to Flap around in
01:15:21 the wind or anything like that
01:15:24 so I installed a strip of this raid on
01:15:25 the inside of this corner post pushing
01:15:28 it in as far as it would
01:15:30 go and again I nailed it pretty snug but
01:15:33 not too tight so it still has about a/2
01:15:36 in of vertical play in
01:15:46 it now before I install that starter
01:15:48 piece I'm just using the snap loock
01:15:50 punch to punch a tab every 2 feet or so
01:15:57 and then just sliding that in place
01:15:58 inside of that s
01:16:01 trim after I made sure that piece was
01:16:04 level I nailed it off every 16 in or
01:16:07 so and then continued adding
01:16:18 pieces to make an angle cut I'd just
01:16:20 measure my one side measurement and then
01:16:22 using my speed square I would just turn
01:16:24 it on this Mark using it as the pivot
01:16:26 point until it was at about that 33 1/
01:16:29 12° slope of the
01:16:31 roof then I just mark this line and cut
01:16:34 this out using my Aviation
01:16:41 Snips then I could slide this panel into
01:16:44 place and interlock it with the panel
01:16:46 next to it and then I just want to make
01:16:48 sure there's about a 3/8 to half an inch
01:16:50 play in this panel up and down because
01:16:53 cuz it's only about 8° out when I'm
01:16:54 filming this and it's going to expand
01:16:56 quite a lot once it's about
01:16:58 35 these panels I'm nailing quite a bit
01:17:00 looser than the trim and they should be
01:17:02 easily able to play up and down I'd
01:17:05 generally start nailing up at the top
01:17:07 and I would just push it right up to the
01:17:08 top of the J trim and then drop at about
01:17:10 an E8 in then put my first nail right at
01:17:12 the top of that first full nailing slot
01:17:15 all the rest of the nails along the
01:17:16 panel are in the center of each nailing
01:17:18 slot and about 16 in
01:17:30 once I got to the last piece of a wall I
01:17:32 had to install another piece of that se
01:17:34 trim to catch the cut
01:17:37 Edge and then I'd just slide that last
01:17:40 piece into place and this one actually
01:17:41 doesn't have any nails in it at
01:17:53 I also added in a bunch of these
01:17:54 exterior receptacles so first inside I
01:17:57 would just drill through on the corner
01:17:59 of a stud and then I'd find that drill
01:18:02 hole on the outside and put up this
01:18:03 piece of the receptacle to trace the cut
01:18:07 hole and then I'd just cut that out with
01:18:13 multi-tool then I just nail in this side
01:18:15 in shoud that came with the recepticle
01:18:17 and this just replaces the jtrim I'd
01:18:18 have to put around it
01:18:21 otherwise and then I can just use some
01:18:23 host wrap tape to tape up the sides and
01:18:25 then overlap that flap of host wrap back
01:18:28 over top and tape it
01:18:29 down I just installed the boxes right
01:18:32 now I didn't install the actual
01:18:33 receptacles I'll cover that once we do
01:18:35 the inside in the next
01:18:46 video around doors or Windows or
01:18:48 anything else that interrupted a full
01:18:50 panel I would just take a tight
01:18:52 measurement and then subtract about a/4
01:18:54 to 3/8 of an inch depending on the
01:18:56 temperature this will leave a nice size
01:18:58 Gap around every obstruction and give
01:19:00 that pan lots of room to expand still
01:19:03 that Sil trim also gets installed along
01:19:05 the sides of any longer vertical cutouts
01:19:07 like the sides of the
01:19:09 windows by the way I'm about to hit a
01:19:11 million subscribers which is absolutely
01:19:14 insane I want to thank every single one
01:19:15 of you for that like I said earlier
01:19:17 building this tiny house was kind of the
01:19:19 reason I started doing YouTube in the
01:19:21 first place I wanted to have a little
01:19:22 bit of a following by the time I built
01:19:24 it but I never imagined it would be a
01:19:26 million people and I got lots of cool
01:19:28 ideas still left in the tank after this
01:19:30 so if you haven't hit the Subscribe
01:19:35 now and now my roof finally arrives so
01:19:37 we can start putting that on by the way
01:19:39 I know I said earlier on that the main
01:19:41 rule of this channel is to describe
01:19:43 every single step in good detail and
01:19:46 unfortunately I'm going to have to bend
01:19:47 that rule a little bit with this roof in
01:19:49 section because I didn't really know
01:19:50 what I was doing so I had a couple
01:19:52 friends that are roofers helped me put
01:19:53 it on I'll still explain roughly what
01:19:55 we're doing but I decided to just learn
01:19:57 on this one and then in a future project
01:19:59 where I'm doing a metal roof I can do a
01:20:00 more full tutorial then so we're first
01:20:03 installing the drip edge along all the
01:20:05 lower edges of the
01:20:12 roof and this is why I left some of the
01:20:14 white plastic on the bottom of this roof
01:20:15 underlay so that I could lift it up out
01:20:17 of the way to screw in the drip edge and
01:20:19 then we can pull that white plastic off
01:20:21 and then stick this underlay right down
01:20:23 on top of the drip
01:20:28 edge and then we installed this Gable
01:20:30 Edge trim and cut a nice miter where
01:20:32 they met and by we I mean Joel did
01:21:02 then we had to install the starter trim
01:21:04 around all the points where the roof met
01:21:26 and that's all the trim done on one
01:21:27 Saturday and the next Saturday they came
01:21:29 over to help me put on the
01:21:43 panels so these are pretty
01:21:45 straightforward to install once the
01:21:46 trims all installed they really just
01:21:48 snap together and the next sheet always
01:21:50 covers up the previous sheet screws
01:21:59 we also had to prep every sheet by
01:22:01 cutting off about an inch of these ribs
01:22:03 and capping them and then bending around
01:22:06 this bottom portion of the sheet so it
01:22:07 would hook onto the drip
01:22:20 edge we also had done stall that
01:22:28 Skylight and they did all of this I have
01:22:31 no idea what they did so we're going to
01:22:32 have to wait for another video for me to
01:22:34 describe to you how to install a
01:22:36 skylight cuz I have noing
01:23:14 sound with all the sheets installed we
01:23:16 had to install the ridge cap and I
01:23:18 messed up and ordered these sheets a
01:23:20 couple inches too short so we had to get
01:23:22 in a way bigger ridge cap to cover that
01:23:24 up but first we had to stick these foam
01:23:26 sealer things onto the
01:23:30 ribs and cut away a bit of that underlay
01:23:33 so that the roof can
01:23:35 vent then we put the ridge cap into
01:23:37 place and started screwing it into place
01:23:58 and now that's a finished standing seam
01:24:00 metal roof again I wish I had more
01:24:03 detail to give you on this but I'm only
01:24:04 as good as the YouTube videos that
01:24:06 already exists and there wasn't much on
01:24:08 installing standing seam roof so we'll
01:24:10 save it for the next
01:24:20 one so now I still this one side wall
01:24:23 that hasn't been sided yet and we just
01:24:26 had our first snowfall of the
01:24:33 season so I didn't put any side in on
01:24:35 this wall yet because I'm going to be
01:24:37 building uh Cedar accent piece along
01:24:39 this three window stretch here so I'm
01:24:42 just measuring out the lines I'm going
01:24:44 to need to start the trim for this
01:24:46 piece and then I could really only
01:24:48 measure the top section so I have this
01:24:50 laser level and I'm going to line it up
01:24:57 Line and then just make a couple ticks
01:24:59 along this line and extend it down onto
01:25:01 the lower portion of this
01:25:12 wall so now I have these clear cedar
01:25:15 2x4s and these are sitting at an inch
01:25:21 thick but I'm I'm just going to take a
01:25:22 few passes off the backside with my
01:25:33 planer and bring that down to an inch
01:25:36 and a quar this is just how far I wanted
01:25:38 it to stick out from the wall for no
01:25:40 real reason other than that's what I
01:25:45 determined then I cut my first piece to
01:25:53 and then I'm going to be screwing this
01:25:54 into the wall so I'm measuring out some
01:25:57 placement just to make it look pretty
01:26:00 precise and then I'm using a 3/8 in
01:26:03 forer bit to counter sync these holes
01:26:05 about halfway into the board I just put
01:26:08 anywhere from two to four in each board
01:26:10 depending on the
01:26:18 length now I can just line the edge of
01:26:20 this board up with that vertical line I
01:26:26 drew and just trim this piece
01:26:36 out around the corner I just used
01:26:38 another chunk of that same piece of 2x4
01:26:40 so the color matches and glued it onto
01:26:43 that edge and screwed it into the
01:26:46 wall after this gets a light sand in in
01:26:48 a later step you'll barely even see this
01:26:54 and I just ripped a thinner section in
01:26:56 2x4 and used a 8 in round over bit in my
01:26:59 rotor just to soften that square
01:27:06 Edge I also roted out a few of these
01:27:09 grooves in the back side of the board
01:27:10 because these are going to be horizontal
01:27:12 so that when water gets in behind here
01:27:13 it can still escape from behind the
01:27:19 wood and then I just finish nailed these
01:27:22 smaller pieces into place now I don't
01:27:24 have a drill press but I have a buddy
01:27:26 that has one that looks like he uses it
01:27:29 lot and then I have these 38 in dowel
01:27:32 cutting drill bits and then I'm just
01:27:34 going to use this to drill press a bunch
01:27:36 of dowels out of those same chunks at
01:27:43 2x4s then you can just break off the
01:27:47 dowel and I just put a little bit of
01:27:49 glue in these counter sunk screw holes
01:27:52 and then maded the dowel into place I'll
01:27:54 come back later and cut these off and
01:27:55 sand them and you'll barely even see
01:27:57 them I also just cut up some scrap 2x4s
01:28:00 into some Quin sections to be some
01:28:06 strips and these just raise out that
01:28:08 tongue and groove panel in an extra 1/
01:28:09 quar inch to get them at the reveal I
01:28:14 at and now I can start installing a
01:28:17 bunch more clear Cedar tongue and
01:28:24 I started at the bottom with the tongue
01:28:26 going upwards and then each layer would
01:28:28 just get set in place on top of the
01:28:30 last and I'd use my 15 gauge nailer to
01:28:33 nail in through every furring strip in
01:28:35 through that tongue again then once the
01:28:37 next board goes into place those Nails
01:28:46 disappear to go around a window as exact
01:28:48 as possible I'd set the board in place
01:28:51 and then Mark the edge of the
01:28:54 window then I just measure up that gap
01:28:57 for how far it needs to be cut back and
01:28:59 then Mark that out and cut it out with
01:29:12 jigsaw and that was a pretty satisfying
01:29:15 day of work I absolutely love the way
01:29:18 this looks with no knots or no exposed
01:29:20 Nails it's super clean
01:29:24 oh and back to those dowels I just use
01:29:26 my multi-tool to cut off most of a
01:29:30 dowel and then I use some 150 grit
01:29:33 sandpaper to finish sand
01:29:36 that it cost me a couple Grand just to
01:29:39 do this little piece but it's literally
01:29:41 what everybody talks about as soon as
01:29:42 they come up and talk to me about it and
01:29:45 a lot of people do while I was filming
01:29:46 this if it was a nice sunny day I would
01:29:48 have probably five or six people stop in
01:29:50 every day and talk to me and this took a
01:29:51 while while to film you know like 2 and
01:29:53 A2 months or so lots of curious people
01:29:57 there the next day I protected this wood
01:30:00 piece with some osmo UV protection oil
01:30:04 and pretty self-explanatory I just
01:30:05 brushed this on also this is a brand new
01:30:08 song My Band just put out so I'm just
01:30:10 going to let this play for a bit while I
01:30:12 finish up a bunch more of these details
01:30:14 and hey you might recognize this guy's
01:30:20 reveal it's world
01:30:27 feel and I feel right hold yourself in a
01:30:33 state of grief I want to show you
01:30:36 something now wish you could keep Lo
01:30:47 L with one coat applied the stuff needs
01:30:50 at least two so the next next day I came
01:30:52 back and sanded it with a 220 grit
01:30:54 sanding block and then applied the
01:30:57 coat this is also the same stuff I used
01:31:00 to seal up all the cedar s it quite a
01:31:15 ago with that done I can start finishing
01:31:18 up the S and doing all the other
01:32:43 sleep by the way if you like that song
01:32:45 it's available on Apple music Spotify
01:32:47 everything else and it was actually
01:32:49 written right here in this shop
01:32:52 so now after a long 2 and 1/2 months I'm
01:32:54 finally on to my last step of this build
01:32:59 exterior so this is just some regular
01:33:02 6-in aluminum fascia
01:33:09 cap with the first piece here I'm just
01:33:11 marking a 1in tick and then cutting this
01:33:13 up on only that lower bent over
01:33:17 section then I can score this tab with a
01:33:20 knife and just wiggle it until it pops
01:33:26 off and then using a square I scored
01:33:28 another line along the back side of the
01:33:30 fascia right along that 1 in Mark and
01:33:32 then just used a hand breake to bend
01:33:39 90° and now that's a good little end cap
01:33:42 that we can use to start our run of
01:33:43 fascia to install this I just wiggled
01:33:46 this up right underneath the drip edge
01:33:48 until it was flush with the
01:33:50 sopit and then this just gets nailed in
01:33:52 every couple feet along that bottom Edge
01:33:55 I'm using aluminum trim nails for this
01:33:56 and I found it easier to actually
01:33:58 pre-drill the fascia first because it's
01:34:00 easy to ding the fascia
01:34:08 otherwise and then I just started
01:34:10 working away panel after
01:34:29 where pieces overlap I'd give them about
01:34:31 an inch of overlap and then just put a
01:34:34 nail right up through both
01:34:37 sheets once I got to the end of the Run
01:34:39 I'd make another piece with one of those
01:34:41 1-in bent over end
01:34:52 to start the Gable ends I'd first
01:34:54 measure out the bird box as well as the
01:34:56 vertical portion up to the S
01:34:58 there and then I'd transfer this on to
01:35:01 just a scrap piece of fascia I'd also
01:35:03 make a mark an inch further so I can
01:35:05 bend it around the corner and make a
01:35:07 mark at the 1in point so starting at the
01:35:09 1in point I would just cut off this bent
01:35:11 over tab here and then make a 45°
01:35:16 miter then I'd cut my cut line and cut
01:35:19 just the bottom portion of this Bend
01:35:33 then I'd use my Square to score a line
01:35:35 along that bend line and use a handbrake
01:35:37 to bend that over
01:35:44 90° then I just transferred on that
01:35:46 second vertical measurement I took and
01:35:49 cut along the bend to this point and
01:35:50 then just bend this over roughly to the
01:35:58 roof then this cap just slides over the
01:36:01 end and I just put one tack in it for
01:36:09 now for the next piece I just measured
01:36:12 from the bottom end of that Peak down
01:36:13 into the corner of the bird box there
01:36:16 and then Mark this out on a fresh
01:36:18 sheet so my peak's at 86 in but I'm
01:36:21 going to put another tick 1 in further
01:36:23 and then I'm using my Square to get that
01:36:25 same 33 and 1/ 12° slope of the roof and
01:36:28 then I'm going to cut this line on the
01:36:30 bottom side I cut that inch back
01:36:33 line and then just scored these two
01:36:40 apart where this piece overlaps with the
01:36:42 bird box I just cut up this bottom Mark
01:36:45 and then scored this tab
01:36:56 so I left this piece a couple inches
01:36:58 long and then I'm just going to trace
01:37:00 Edge and I just have this tack nailed at
01:37:03 the top so I can actually pull this
01:37:04 bottom part out and then cut this
01:37:09 line and then with everything looking
01:37:11 pretty flush I can just nail this into
01:37:25 the next piece is made almost the exact
01:37:27 same way I just made the angle cut right
01:37:28 on the measurement this time not an inch
01:37:31 further and then those two pieces should
01:37:33 meet right in the middle of this peak
01:37:35 with that first piece being cut an inch
01:37:36 longer I still have that inch overlap
01:37:40 too and then these last two pieces are
01:37:42 made the exact same way I just had to
01:37:44 score that bottom edge off a little bit
01:37:46 further where these pieces overlap the
01:38:08 and that's the last step of this build
01:38:10 after watching the seasons change from
01:38:12 the middle of summer to the beginning of
01:38:14 winter and challenging my construction
01:38:16 ability for 2 and 1/2 months 10 hours a
01:38:18 day the exterior of my tiny house and by
01:38:21 far the nicest thing I've ever built is
01:38:25 complete by the way if you watch the
01:38:27 entire 1 hour and 38 minutes of this
01:38:29 build you are my
01:39:15 so the final dimensions of this
01:39:17 including the overhangs is 12 ft wide
01:39:20 and about 15t 10 high with these
01:39:22 Dimensions it can be held pretty much
01:39:24 anywhere with just a wide load permit
01:39:26 I'm not sure the weight but I wouldn't
01:39:27 think it's anything more than 6 or 7,000
01:39:30 lb right now in total to get me to this
01:39:33 point it's cost about $65,000 Canadian
01:39:36 inside it's got just over 300 Square ft
01:39:39 and a little more once I had a
01:39:48 loft obviously I'm still pretty far away
01:39:50 from living in this but I'm going to be
01:39:51 tackling the inside in some of my next
01:39:53 videos oh and I'm still designing that
01:39:55 so if you have any really cool ideas for
01:39:57 the inside leave them in the comments
01:40:01 below as you can tell by the length and
01:40:03 the amount of detail I put my heart and
01:40:05 soul into every single one of my videos
01:40:07 and I absolutely love making them for
01:40:08 you this video contains over 2,000
01:40:11 separate clips and 4 terab of footage it
01:40:15 was shot working fulltime for 2 and 1/2
01:40:17 months using only my camera and a tripod
01:40:20 I edited this whole video myself and it
01:40:21 took another 2 weeks just to complete
01:40:23 the video and my point in this is
01:40:26 basically hit that subscribe
01:40:28 button I really hope I inspired some
01:40:30 people to think outside the box when it
01:40:32 comes to housing especially in today's
01:40:34 world where it feels like it's
01:40:35 impossible to get ahead believe me I
01:40:37 know the feeling that's the whole reason
01:40:39 this YouTube channel started in the
01:40:40 first place but now I'm one step closer
01:40:43 to moving out of my parents
01:40:45 basement if you enjoyed this video you
01:40:47 can also follow me on my Instagram I'm
01:40:49 going to be doing some giveaways on
01:40:50 there that aren't going to be announced
01:40:51 on YouTube so that's the place to hear