BUILDING A TINY HOUSE - DIY Full Exterior Build
Drew Builds Stuff2023-11-19
8M views|9 months ago
💫 Short Summary
The video is a detailed DIY guide on building a tiny house, including constructing the trailer, insulating the floor, framing the walls and roof, and installing sheathing and roofing membrane. The builder uses high-quality materials and pays attention to details, such as adding clear cedar tongue and groove paneling for the soffit. "In this video, a builder constructs a tiny house, completing tasks such as installing electrical components, windows, siding, a front door, and a standing seam metal roof. They also add cedar accent pieces and finishing touches to the exterior. Additionally, they share personal insights and experiences related to their building process." "The video demonstrates the construction of a tiny house exterior, including the installation of fascia, end caps, and gable ends. The builder shares detailed steps and measurements for each part of the process. The final dimensions of the tiny house are 12 ft wide and about 15 ft 10 in high, and it cost approximately $65,000 Canadian to build. The interior design and future plans for the tiny house are also mentioned."
✨ Highlights
📊 Transcript
✦
The video is about a young man taking his first step towards moving out of his parents' basement by building a house with no fixed location but no compromise on quality.
00:00The young man is tired of letting the unaffordable housing market get him down.
He is starting the build with a custom-built trailer specifically made for tiny homes.
The trailer has three 7,000lb axles and weighs about 3,000 lb, providing a solid foundation for the home.
The first step is to cut off a couple of stabilizer jack receivers to make space for the front end of the tiny house.
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The video then shows the process of insulating the floor and adding subfloor panels to the trailer.
02:182-inch rigid foam insulation is cut to size and placed along the sides of the trailer.
Ribs are raised to the same height as the rest of the floor to provide a level surface.
Pipes for the kitchen sink, bathroom sink, and shower are added to the floor, along with a main drain point.
The floor is insulated and ready for the subfloor panels, which are 3/4 inch chipboard tongue and groove.
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The next steps involve framing the walls and adding support beams for the roof.
04:44Walls are framed using regular 2x4 lumber, with specific measurements for stud placement, jack and king studs for doors and windows, and middle studs at 16 inches on center.
Custom-built beams are added to support the roof and connect the two side walls together.
Cedar tie beams are used for their visual and structural appeal, despite their high cost.
The video emphasizes the importance of precise measurements and level surfaces for a successful build.
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The video showcases the process of adding the subfloor panels, which involves cutting, spreading foam construction adhesive, and securing the panels with nails and screws.
06:37The 3/4 inch chipboard tongue and groove subfloor panels are spread with foam construction adhesive to improve their stability.
The panels are cut to size and laid down, with additional support from foam insulation and shims.
Foam is used to fill in gaps and provide a seamless base for the subfloor.
The narrator expresses his frustration with the unaffordable housing market and his determination to build a tiny home as a solution.
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The video then focuses on framing the walls, including cutting and positioning the studs, adding headers for doors and windows, and securing the walls to the trailer.
08:46Detailed process of cutting, measuring, and positioning the studs for the walls
Use of 6x6 cedar tie beams for visual appeal and structural support
Installation of headers for doors and windows, with emphasis on precise measurements and level surfaces
Securing the walls to the trailer using bolts and straps for stability and structural integrity
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The video demonstrates the process of framing the top of the walls, including adding a second top plate for support and stability.
11:52The narrator explains his motivation for starting a YouTube channel, which is to document his journey of building a tiny home.
The walls are framed using 2x4 lumber, with attention to detail in cutting and positioning the top plate and studs.
Headers for doors and windows are added, with the narrator emphasizing the importance of support and stability for the overall structure.
The video ends with the walls ready to stand, showcasing the progress made in a short period of time.
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The video demonstrates the installation of lights, windows, and siding on a tiny house.
00:48Lights are installed along the front side of the soffit, with attention to detail in drilling and covering with window screen to prevent bugs from entering.
Tempered glass windows are used for durability and installation requires cutting pieces of 2x4 and nailing them in place.
Siding is installed using corner posts, flashing tape, and J trim for proper water shedding.
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The video shifts to the installation of windows, with a focus on the challenges faced due to the absence of a nailing fin.
02:00Windows are shown being installed with the use of blocks for spacing and shims for leveling.
Due to the absence of a nailing fin, the video showcases the use of flashing tape to fill the gaps around the windows.
Different techniques are demonstrated based on the size and height of the windows, with a mention of the structural support provided by screws.
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The section focuses on the installation of the front door, including sealing with silicone, using construction adhesive, and securing with screws.
05:32The video demonstrates the installation of the front door, highlighting the use of silicone sealant and construction adhesive for protection and stability.
Screws are used to secure the door in place, with attention to shimming and leveling for proper functionality.
Additional details are provided for installing a door with a nailing fin, including the use of flashing tape and metal drip edge for weather protection.
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Installing the fascia for the tiny house exterior
01:33Cutting and scoring the fascia to fit the roof slope and dimensions
Nailing the fascia in place with aluminum trim nails
Adding end caps for the Gable ends and ensuring proper measurements for the peaks
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Completion of the exterior of the tiny house
01:38The exterior of the tiny house is now fully complete after 2.5 months of construction
The dimensions, including overhangs, are 12 ft wide and about 15 ft 10 high
The total cost up to this point is about $65,000 Canadian
✦
Next steps for the tiny house
01:39The inside of the tiny house will be tackled in the next videos
The video contains over 2,000 separate clips and 4 terabytes of footage, shot and edited by the creator
Creator hopes to inspire people to think outside the box when it comes to housing
✦
Final thoughts and promotion
01:40Asking viewers to subscribe to the YouTube channel
Revealing progress towards moving out of parents' basement
Promoting Instagram for exclusive giveaways
00:02 if you're around my age there's a good
00:03 chance your entire life you've watched
00:05 your dream of owning a house go from
00:06 what seemed like a near
00:08 certainty too completely out of reach
00:10 for the average
00:12 person and to be honest I'm tired of
00:14 letting that get me
00:18 down in this video I'm taking my first
00:20 step towards moving out of my parents'
00:22 basement and building something I've
00:24 been designing for years a house with no
00:27 fixed location but no compromise on
00:29 quality
00:32 a place to finally call
00:58 home
01:08 so I'm starting off this build with a
01:09 good custombuilt trailer that's
01:11 specifically made for tiny
01:13 homes this trailer is over with that 11x
01:16 30 ft and I decided to go over with
01:18 because I'm a pretty big guy and by the
01:20 time I closed in a 8' 6 room I'd barely
01:23 be able to lay down horizontally plus
01:25 this is going to be a fairly big unit
01:26 that's not really made to travel it'll
01:28 just move when I move which be like
01:30 every few years so it's not that big a
01:31 deal to get a wide load
01:34 permit the trailer has three 7,000lb
01:37 axles and weighs about 3,000 lb itself
01:39 which gives me 18,000 lb to build my
01:41 home on which should be more than
01:51 enough so the first thing I'm doing is
01:53 cutting off a couple of these stabilizer
01:55 jack
01:57 receivers this is going to be the front
01:59 end of my tiny any house right where the
02:00 door is so I'm going to move these over
02:02 to the side and I'm not going to go into
02:03 a ton of detail on this because I could
02:05 have just ordered it right right from
02:06 the
02:07 beginning but basically I'm just cutting
02:09 off this receiver with a cutof wheel on
02:11 my angle grinder and then I'm welding it
02:12 on to a section of this 3in x/4 in
02:15 square
02:18 tubing and then welding that onto the
02:28 frame then I just used some Rust primer
02:30 and paint and that's good as
02:38 new now on to the actual build I have
02:41 this 2-in rigid foam insulation that I'm
02:43 going to cut up to insulate this floor
02:45 so I cut this out using a rip jig with
02:48 my circular
02:58 saw
03:03 as well as just some good sharp
03:06 knives so I was making sure to cut them
03:08 pretty snug and then I'd Mallet one
03:10 piece into place and then I'd use some
03:12 expanding foam to seal around all the
03:13 edges and act as an
03:17 adhesive and then I'd hammer in another
03:20 section of 2-in foam until it was level
03:21 with the floor
03:23 Framing and I did this along both sides
03:26 of the
03:28 trailer
03:37 before I add the insulation in the
03:38 center I have to raise up these ribs to
03:40 be the same height as the rest of the
03:41 floor so I'm just using my table saw to
03:44 cut up some 2x sixes into these 2in
03:58 sections and then I'm basically just
04:00 adding these onto the ribs as an
04:01 extension so that all the framing
04:03 sitting at the same height and it's good
04:05 to take some
04:13 subfloor I fasten these into place using
04:16 some way forhead tapping
04:28 screws now before I add in all these
04:31 ribs I have to add in a couple pipes in
04:32 the floor that's going to be the drain
04:34 for my kitchen sink bathroom sink and
04:36 shower so I just have some standard inch
04:38 and 1 half ABS piping and I'm using some
04:41 yellow ABS cement to glue on some elbow
04:44 fittings and just extend these pipes
04:46 that they're poking out of the floor so
04:47 I can tap into them
04:58 later so I sloped all these pipes down
05:01 to one point which will be under the
05:03 shower and then I cut a hole through the
05:05 steel belly pan and then this will be
05:07 the main out for the drain that I can
05:09 tap into a septic bed or whatever I come
05:11 up with later to get rid of this
05:14 water I just screwed those pipes in
05:17 place using some steel strapping and
05:19 then I'm ready to add the rest of those
05:23 ribs before I get to insulating this I'm
05:26 just drilling a wee pole in each section
05:28 so that any water that gets in here can
05:32 escape and then I'm ready to cut up a
05:34 bunch more
05:38 foam so I'm pretty much insulating this
05:40 in the exact same way the only
05:42 difference is this is actually an inch
05:43 thicker here so I added this one extra
05:45 section of 1in foam
05:58 board I tried to be as exact as I could
06:01 with the cuts but there was ultimately
06:02 going to be some gaps so I just use
06:04 expanding foam to seal all those
06:17 up and that's the floor insulated and
06:19 ready for some subfloor it has an
06:21 insulation rating of r25 and they
06:24 usually recommend about R40 for floors
06:26 and houses but this is a tiny house and
06:28 you're going to have to cut some corn so
06:29 whether you like it or
06:35 not so now it's time to add the subfloor
06:37 and I have these 3/4 in chipboard tongue
06:40 and groove subfloor panels I usually
06:43 hate working with OSB and I kind of
06:44 ordered these accidentally but they were
06:46 here and they seemed fine so I'm going
06:47 to use them for the floor
06:52 anyway so I marked out and cut my first
06:54 sheet and then before I lay this down
06:56 I'm going to spread out some foam
06:57 construction adhesive along the steel
06:59 steel frame this will just let the wood
07:02 tack onto the steel a little better and
07:03 get rid of any creaking floor or
07:05 anything like
07:10 that then I laid the panel in place
07:12 making sure it was perfectly Plum with
07:14 the trailer and I screwed it into the
07:16 steel framing using some smaller Waf
07:18 forhead tapping
07:23 screws I also added in a bunch of deck
07:26 screws every foot or so along all of the
07:28 wooden ribs
07:35 to cut all of my plywood panels I use
07:37 this track saw jig for my circular saw
07:39 so basically I could just measure out
07:41 two marks with my tape measure and then
07:42 use the track to bridge them and then I
07:44 can just cut right along with the
07:46 circular saw and I don't have to follow
07:47 any lines or Draw any lines and it just
07:49 makes everything a lot faster and
07:53 easier so this tiny house build is
07:55 actually the whole reason I started
07:56 doing YouTube a few years ago I was so
07:58 fed up with at the hosing market and the
08:00 longer I waited the further I got behind
08:02 when I finally decided to pull the
08:04 trigger on building a tiny home I had
08:06 not nearly enough money to even start
08:08 the process so I thought how could I
08:10 maybe make this worthwhile financially I
08:13 had heard a lot of people made some
08:14 money on YouTube but I honestly didn't
08:16 really think it was that realistic of a
08:18 thing but I have a background in Film
08:19 Production so I figured hey if I'm
08:21 building stuff anyway I might as well
08:23 just start filming it and then maybe
08:24 once I start building my tiny house I
08:26 could have like 10,000 followers and
08:27 then possibly one day my job would be on
08:44 YouTube now it's time to start framing
08:46 up my walls so for framing I'm just
08:49 using regular 2x4 lumber and I first cut
08:52 up the bottom and top plate for a
08:58 wall
09:09 and then I'd go ahead and Mark out all
09:11 the stud placement according to the
09:13 blueprint I'd basically Mark out all the
09:15 Jack and King studs for doors and
09:17 windows and then all the middle studs I
09:19 just do 16 in on Center starting from
09:21 one end of the wall with all the studs
09:23 marked on one board I'd just use a
09:25 square to quickly transfer that over to
09:27 the other plate
09:30 and then in every wall I have a bunch of
09:31 these studs that are all the same length
09:33 so I went ahead and cut out a bunch of
09:35 those in this case it's 7 3 and a
09:38 12 by the way the blueprints for this
09:41 exact tiny h house are going to be on my
09:42 website for free and the links on the
09:44 description below I think it's criminal
09:46 what's going on with hosing right now so
09:48 I'm hoping this video can Inspire some
09:49 people to think outside the box and find
09:51 a solution that works for you even if it
09:53 is this exact tiny
09:57 house with all the studs cut to size I
10:00 set them in place and then I'm nailing
10:01 all this framing together using a
10:03 framing nailer and some 3 and 1/4 in
10:05 framing
10:14 nails then I cut up the Jack studs and
10:17 nailed them into the bottom plate and up
10:19 the stud itself into the king stud
10:21 behind
10:28 it
10:40 then I confirm my header size is the
10:42 same size my blueprint says which is 6
10:43 and 1/2 in and then I ripped a 2 by8 on
10:46 my table saw and cut it to
10:55 size and then nailed in two of these
10:57 boards as the header for my door doors
10:59 and
11:12 windows if I couldn't nail the header
11:14 into place through the stud I would just
11:16 toenail it like this and I only put two
11:17 in here but I would usually put in three
11:19 or four and I did that all later I guess
11:21 I also nailed the two header boards
11:23 together using about four vertical Nails
11:26 every foot or so down the header and I
11:28 don't have a clip that
11:31 unfortunately one last thing in this
11:33 wall I added in these short
11:35 studs and then the seill plate for the
11:36 window just to complete out that framing
11:38 for the window with that done I measured
11:41 this rough opening of the window and
11:42 confirmed it with the spec sheet of the
11:44 window probably five times so that I
11:46 made sure this was right and I wouldn't
11:48 have to fix it later
11:49 on and that's one wall complete now it's
11:52 time to start working down the
11:57 side so I first made up this super
11:59 simple wall using some more of those 7t
12:01 3 and 1/2
12:04 studs and then I made up another section
12:07 of this wall that's a little bit shorter
12:08 because this is going to be sitting on
12:10 top of the wheel
12:27 well
12:40 this next section of wall is going to be
12:42 2 ft higher than the previous walls and
12:43 then I also have this Step at the bottom
12:45 where the wheel well is going to drop
12:47 off back to the bed of the trailer I
12:49 also had to frame three of these small
12:50 Windows into this wall so I use multiple
12:52 headers and some spacer studs to get
12:54 this done then I framed up the last
12:56 section of this wall so there's going to
12:58 be four of these sections in total to
13:00 complete one sidewall and then I'll nail
13:01 these all together once they're all
13:08 erected so it took me 2 Days in total to
13:10 frame all the walls and that's including
13:12 filming time which takes quite a bit
13:14 longer so you could probably do this in
13:15 a day especially if you had an extra
13:17 pair of
13:27 hands
13:30 I actually find this part of the build
13:31 really satisfying because you make a lot
13:33 of progress within about a week's time
13:35 so now I have all of my walls ready to
13:37 stand
13:40 up but before I do that I'm adding my
13:42 four corner Jacks and I'm going to spend
13:44 a good amount of time getting this
13:45 trailer bed as absolutely level as
13:48 possible you want this to be level in
13:49 pretty much every area because the
13:51 squareness of this entire build depends
13:53 on a level trailer once we put up the
13:55 walls we'll be leveling them and as long
13:57 as the trailer is perfectly level the
13:58 walls will be perfectly Square to the
13:59 trailer then next I just marked out some
14:02 half2 in ticks to set these walls back
14:04 at/ in from the trailer
14:06 Edge and then I used a chalk line to
14:08 snap a straight
14:15 line then I put a bit of expanding foam
14:18 along where the Wall's going to sit as
14:19 some seill insulation and started
14:21 lifting the wall sections into
14:25 place you're going to need a hand when
14:27 doing this because some of these walls I
14:29 don't know maybe 300 lb or so I'm just
14:32 temporarily screwing each wall into
14:33 place using some of these self-tapping
14:39 screws and then these will get replaced
14:41 out with big 1/2 in bolts once all the
14:43 walls are
14:53 up to support each section of wall I'm
14:56 driving a steak into the ground and then
14:59 I'm just using a scrap 2x4 to brace up
15:01 to the wall wherever it's
15:22 level and then we just kept installing
15:24 the wall sections and in a pretty short
15:26 period of time of a few hours went from
15:29 just having a blank trailer to something
15:30 that's getting pretty close to looking
15:32 like a building I'll be able to move out
15:33 of my parents' basement soon God that'd
15:35 be
15:40 awesome where the sections got nailed
15:42 together I'd just sink a nail every foot
15:44 or
15:45 so and then I'd come up on the other
15:47 side of the stud and sink another set of
15:49 nails every foot or so so that there's
15:51 two sets with opposite angles and kind
15:53 of stitching this
15:57 together
16:18 with all the walls in place and braced
16:20 I'm taking out these temporary
16:23 screws and then I'm drilling through a
16:26 half2 inch
16:27 hole
16:30 and then using these 1/2 in stainless
16:32 steel bolts and
16:35 washers and then this nylon lock nut to
16:37 bolt these walls
16:40 down I'd sink the bolts as tight as I
16:43 could with the impact and then give them
16:44 one last burst of some man
16:55 energy I put one of these bolts probably
16:58 about every 2 or 3 ft down every wall
17:00 which is way Overkill but hey they're
17:02 cheap and it's better than these walls
17:04 blowing off the
17:08 frame now you want to do just one last
17:10 check that everything's level and make
17:12 any adjustments if you need to and
17:14 that's starting to look like a
17:27 house
17:36 so the next thing I'm doing is adding a
17:37 second top plate with some more
17:44 2x4s and the most important thing with
17:46 these is you want to make sure these
17:47 overlap the gaps where the sections of
17:49 the walls join together this just adds
17:52 quite a bit more support and kind of
17:53 ties all those separate wall sections
17:55 together as
17:57 one
18:05 now I'm soon going to start framing up
18:06 the roof but I first have to frame up
18:08 one more little section of wall that
18:09 goes on top of our one end
18:17 wall this has some space for a window in
18:19 it and it also has structural support to
18:21 support the ridge beam that's going to
18:23 sit on top of
18:27 here
18:34 the other end's not quite as complicated
18:35 it's really just this 2x4 blocking but
18:37 this is raised up to the exact same
18:39 height as the other ends that the ridge
18:41 beam will sit
18:45 level and then before I add the ridge
18:47 beam I'm going to add in a few of these
18:49 6x6 Cedar tie beams these will connect
18:52 the two sidewalls together and keep the
18:54 weight of the roof from bowing out the
18:55 walls and I decided to go with cedar
18:58 even even though four of these 12T beams
19:00 cost $11,200 which is insane but they
19:03 smell and look so good and they're going
19:05 to be a pretty Monumental part of the
19:07 finished interior of the tiny
19:09 house so to cut these I just used a
19:12 regular circular saw and cut along a
19:14 line on all four sides and then just
19:16 used a hand saww to finish up that
19:27 cut
19:35 then these are going to screw into
19:37 another piece of 6x6 that extends up
19:39 vertically up to support the ridge
19:41 beam so I marked out some bolt holes and
19:45 drilled them through with a/4 in Long
19:46 drill
19:52 bit and then used an inch and a half
19:55 forer bit to make some counter sinks
20:03 as you can hear it was incredibly windy
20:05 this day as it was a lot of days out in
20:06 the middle of this field which made this
20:08 process so much easier so to mount these
20:10 beams into the tops of the walls I'm
20:12 pre-drilling in another 1/4in hole and
20:14 then using some of these 9in long 3/8 in
20:17 leg
20:23 bolts holy that was
20:27 close
20:30 oh my
20:32 God my Cameron tripod almost blew off
20:35 scaffolding probably a dozen times in
20:37 this build but that was definitely the
20:48 closest Once the beam was mounted I
20:50 measured up from the floor to get the
20:52 exact height of the top of the beam so
20:54 that I could cut another piece that'll
20:55 extend upwards and meet the exact same
20:58 height as those blocks we put at the two
21:00 ends that support the Ridge Beamer at
21:02 this is just another step to making that
21:03 ridge beam perfectly
21:05 level then I set this second chunk of
21:08 beam in place making sure it was
21:09 centered and use some more 38 in leg
21:21 bolts then I had two more of these to
21:23 make so I went ahead and started doing
21:27 that an important note is you want to
21:29 individually measure from the floor up
21:30 to the top of each one of these beams
21:32 and then make a custom piece to fit the
21:34 top because each beam has a slightly
21:36 different bow to it and then you can
21:38 make sure that ridge beam is supported
21:40 at the exact same level at all five
21:45 points oh my
21:57 God
22:04 now for the actual ridge beam itself I'm
22:06 using these 9 and 1/4 in by in and 3/4
22:09 LVL
22:11 beams and I got some fairly long lengths
22:13 of
22:22 this now to secure this beam onto the
22:24 end I have these 4x4 post caps I'm
22:27 screwing into the 2x4 blocking or I'd
22:30 use some strong tie
22:36 nails and for now I've just got some
22:37 scrap 2x4s I'm screwing onto the sides
22:40 of the 6X sixes just so that the ridge
22:42 beam doesn't fall off the edge then I
22:45 started lifting the two longer lengths
22:47 of ridge beam into place and this was
22:49 quite the job for one
22:50 person and of course as soon as I got it
22:52 up there I figured it would actually be
22:54 way easier to measure this out and cut
22:56 it on the ground so I took them down
22:57 again
23:05 so I'm cutting in this indent and this
23:06 is for where the roof is going to
23:08 overhang over the walls and I cut this
23:11 back to be 5 1/2 in so that it's just
23:12 the width of 2x6 overhanging out past
23:15 the walls then this will just get
23:17 covered up with soft it and I don't have
23:19 to cap it or anything on the
23:24 outside so this first side of the ridge
23:26 beam will meet at that Center cater
23:28 beam and then I split the second side of
23:30 the ridge beam into three pieces so that
23:32 the joining points are
23:43 overlapping with all the pieces up I
23:45 nailed the lvls together using more
23:47 framing
23:51 nails and I'd do a line of nails about
23:53 an inch apart every foot or so
23:55 alternating sides on each run
24:08 and now that's a pretty Overkill ridge
24:10 beam for what this
24:22 is one more thing I did before the
24:24 sheeting goes on is I used a bunch of
24:25 rolls of this steel strapping and just
24:28 screwed together a bunch of the studs
24:29 with diagonal angles just for some
24:31 lateral
24:33 support I don't know how much this is
24:35 actually going to stop it from moving
24:36 but I've seen lots of people do this in
24:38 other videos so I thought I might as
24:39 well to be honest though the Steel's
24:41 pretty flimsy and I think the plywood
24:43 would offer more lateral support as long
24:45 as it's nailed properly but for the
24:46 price this cost better safe than sorry I
24:48 guess but here's a good clip of how much
24:51 a stud moves that's supported at two
24:52 points and one that's not supported at
24:56 all
24:59 now the next step is I'm going to
25:00 install the sheath thing around all the
25:02 walls I'm just using some halfin
25:04 standard plywood you can use OSB if you
25:06 want it's a little bit cheaper I just
25:08 prefer plywood because it seems more
25:09 soundproof and rigid and it just feels
25:12 like a better constructed home when
25:13 you're inside
25:21 it and then we just set the sheet on
25:23 that little 1/ in ledge we left when we
25:25 put on the walls and just tacked it and
25:27 place with some 2 and 1/2 in framing
25:30 nails then we just started filling in
25:32 all the rest of the sheets also thanks
25:34 to my brother who is around because this
25:36 is definitely not a onean job and he
25:38 helped out whenever I needed some extra
25:44 hands so Shea thing actually doesn't get
25:46 put on tight it has a slight gap between
25:48 all the sheets so I just use one of the
25:50 nails which is about an eighth of an
25:52 inch thick to space the gap between all
25:53 the
25:56 sheets
25:59 to permanently nail off every sheet I
26:01 would go 4 in between each nail around
26:04 the perimeter of the
26:06 sheet and on the interior studs I'd Mark
26:08 a line with the level and then follow
26:11 this line with nails every 6 in seems
26:14 like a lot of nails and it is but this
26:16 is really what gives everything its
26:17 strength and stops any sheer forces or
26:20 at least so I'm told I really don't know
26:21 I've never built anything even remotely
26:23 close to this before so keep that in
26:25 mind this whole time
26:30 the second layer goes on pretty much the
26:31 exact same way as the first you just got
26:33 to remember not to end your sheet on the
26:35 same stud so that all those gaps are
26:40 offset and we'd also use some spare
26:42 nails to maintain that E8 in gap around
26:45 every edge of the sheet when we're
26:46 setting the top layer in
26:56 place there there's a few ways to cut
26:58 out the windows now but the easiest
27:00 method I've always found is to drill out
27:01 the corners with a drill
27:07 bit and then from the outside I'm going
27:09 to use this Palm rotor and this flush
27:11 trim rotor bit and this will just cut
27:14 through the plywood while the bearing on
27:15 the end of the rotor bit rides along the
27:17 2x4 Framing and won't let me cut in any
27:19 further you get an exact cut to the
27:22 dimensions of the opening in the frame
27:24 and you really don't have to do any
27:26 thinking at all
27:36 it's a pretty convenient way to cut out
27:38 a bunch of Windows in short order
27:39 without doing any measuring and these
27:41 rotor bits are only like 30
27:43 bucks oh yeah and did I mention there's
27:45 a lot of Windows to cut out I think
27:47 there's like 16 or 17 basically a Full
27:49 House worths of Windows in 300 ft it was
27:53 also another $220,000 for the windows
27:55 but what are you going to do my basement
27:57 right now now has zero
28:01 windows before I could finish up the
28:03 sheathing I had to finish up framing the
28:05 top of this end wall so I use one of the
28:07 template Rafters I'm going to make up in
28:09 the next step to help me get the angle
28:11 that I can frame this wall
28:13 to and then I framed in the rest of this
28:16 octagon window and added in some
28:26 studs
28:53 one last step before I get to framing at
28:55 the roof I'm going to add the house wrap
28:57 right now so we're just going around
28:59 making this as tight as possible and
29:00 just tack it into place with
29:17 staples and then wherever there's a
29:19 vertical seam we use some blue tuck tape
29:21 to tape this
29:25 down then I just cut off any
29:30 excess when you're doing house wrap you
29:32 always want to start at the bottom and
29:34 work your way up that way it has the
29:35 right layering to shed water
29:39 properly again I'm taping the vertical
29:41 seams these horizontal seams don't need
29:43 any because they're overlap properly and
29:45 the water is not going to travel uphill
29:47 to get behind this now I'm going to cut
29:49 a template truss for the steeper part of
29:52 the roof so I have this whole thing
29:53 designed on the computer so I just spit
29:55 out these Dimensions so I don't have to
29:57 to actually measure it on site so first
30:00 I set my miter saw to the angle it said
30:02 which is 33 1/ 12° and then I cut off
30:05 one of the ends of this fresh 8T
30:08 2x6 then I measured from the cut Point
30:11 as long as it said this rafter is
30:12 supposed to be and I cut a second angle
30:15 at this
30:26 point now I'm going to cut out this
30:28 bird's mouth so to do that I just
30:30 measured the point where it starts and
30:32 then this drawing told me the length of
30:33 each cut is 2 and 1 e in and 3 and 3/16
30:36 in so I just used a square and measured
30:38 this out with the edge of the
30:40 wood and then Trac the line and cut this
30:42 out with my circular
30:49 saw then I used a reciprocating saw to
30:52 finish up that
30:56 cut now as long as this fits right this
30:58 will be my template for all the other
31:00 Rafters and I won't have to individually
31:01 measure each one which will save a lot
31:03 of
31:05 error and it looks like it's sitting
31:07 along the ridge beam at the perfect
31:09 angle and sitting nicely on the top
31:10 plate so this looks like a good template
31:13 so I took it down and traced it on to a
31:15 bunch of fresh 2x6s just to make a whole
31:17 bunch of these
31:22 Rafters it's important when tracing
31:24 these that you always use the same
31:25 template piece and even have the same
31:27 face up so that you're always tracing
31:29 that same
31:42 Edge now before I install these Rafters
31:44 I have to mark out the placement so I'm
31:46 just marking out the ridge beam every 2
31:48 ft on Center and I'm putting the ti 3/4
31:51 in off set so that the center of the
31:53 board will be right on the 2T Mark and
31:56 same thing thing with the top
31:59 plate now I can just start installing
32:02 all of my pre-cut
32:08 Rafters to mount these onto the ridge
32:10 beam I'm using one of these Simpson
32:12 rafter
32:13 ties and screwing it in with some
32:16 structural strong tie
32:26 screws
32:31 and that's as easy as it is to set these
32:33 Rafters into
32:37 place to attach each rafter onto the top
32:40 plate of the wall I'm using the Simpson
32:42 trust screws and these just replace our
32:45 hurricane strap and they're a lot
32:46 quicker option and not that much more
32:49 expensive so they come with this little
32:51 guide so I just set that in place and
32:52 then start the
32:53 screw and then remove the guide and keep
32:56 sinking this screw until the head isn't
32:58 protruding out
32:59 anymore and that's all we need to secure
33:02 the bottom of each Raptor onto the walls
33:04 that's now a structural connection at
33:06 least that's what the guy at the
33:07 hardware store tells me I really have no
33:08 experience doing any of
33:17 this now I'm just making up a template
33:19 for the second portion of the roof and
33:21 once it fits just making up a bunch more
33:25 rafters
33:44 when I got to the point that the two
33:45 slopes merged I decided to take these
33:47 structural screws out because they have
33:49 a pretty big popping out head on them
33:51 and replace them with nails and then I
33:53 can just butt this second board up right
33:55 against it and give it a couple
33:57 screws and then I just gave this piece a
34:00 hurricane strap another tip after I put
34:02 up the first few pieces I noticed that
34:04 the overhang wasn't actually the exact
34:06 same for every single rafter so I
34:08 actually started cutting them about an
34:09 inch long and then I just tacked the
34:11 rafters up with one screw and then I
34:13 just use a 2x4 since my preferred
34:15 overhang is 3 and 1/2 in to Mark the cut
34:17 line then I just take them down cut them
34:20 and then put them up permanently and
34:21 then they all have the exact same
34:25 overhang
34:28 while I was up here I also took off
34:29 those temporary chunks of 2x4 and
34:31 replaced it with a steel
34:47 strap now I set the angle on my circular
34:49 saw at the slope of the roof which is 33
34:51 1/ 12° and I ripped off the edge of a
34:54 2x8 and then I marked out every 2T on
34:56 Center Center and attach these little
34:58 tiny pieces of
35:08 rafter then I snapped a level line and
35:11 screwed up these pieces to continue that
35:13 slope all the way around this higher
35:15 section of
35:25 building
35:29 then I ripped an angle into another
35:36 2x8 and I made sure the face on this
35:38 piece was 5 1/2 in just because that's
35:41 the width of a 2x6 and is a pretty
35:42 standard measurement to for getting
35:44 fascia later on and then I screwed in
35:47 these little brace things I made up
35:49 since I'm working alone
35:51 today and I nailed these boards on as
35:53 the facial
35:55 board
36:16 notice I left a good couple feet
36:18 overhanging out the end of this board
36:20 and that's because I'm going to connect
36:21 this with one more rafter up to the
36:23 ridge beam and be the overhang of the
36:25 roof
36:37 now I'm going to create that overhang so
36:39 I'm measuring out how much that Ridge
36:40 bream is protruding out and then
36:42 transferring that onto the fascia board
36:45 then I'm cutting up one more rafter
36:47 using that same old template but not
36:48 cutting in the bird's MTH this
36:55 time and screwing and nailing that in to
36:58 be the fascia board of this Gable
37:16 end then I just squared off a line and
37:18 used a circular saw to cut this board
37:25 flush
37:39 at the other end I first nailed on this
37:40 rafter that has a couple of these ribs
37:42 coming
37:45 out and then I added on that last rafter
37:48 as the Gable
37:55 end then I have a rafter for the lower
37:57 slope part and I'm just tacking this
37:59 onto the end and then screwing this on
38:01 to the face of the rafter below it then
38:04 I went up top and just traced this line
38:06 and then took the board down to cut this
38:08 with my circular
38:15 saw now I can take this board back up
38:18 and nail it in permanently at the
38:21 end and then this is just sitting on the
38:23 rafter below it so I'm just going to
38:25 nail it snug onto that
38:39 now on each of these overhangs I'm just
38:40 adding a couple pieces of blocking that
38:42 extends into the frame of the roof just
38:44 a stutter two and this will just give it
38:46 a little more support on that
38:50 overhang then I also addited these
38:52 couple boards as a rough opening for a
38:54 skylight that's going to be right here
39:04 and I also had to frame in these tiny
39:06 little walls where the slope and the
39:08 roof
39:25 changed
39:34 and that's the entire framing for this
39:35 tiny has now complete a little more
39:37 sheeting and we're pretty much closed
39:48 in to sheet the roof I'm using that same
39:51 half2 in Plywood And I'm pretty much
39:52 doing this in the exact same method that
39:54 I did the walls
40:11 I'd use a scrap piece of 2x4 and screw
40:13 it into the fascia board just so the
40:14 plywood wouldn't go down any further
40:16 than the edge of that board and I nailed
40:19 these sheets down to each rafter with
40:20 about a 4-in gap between
40:25 nails
40:35 I also use these sheathing Clips between
40:37 each Rapter which gives me that E8 in
40:39 gap and it also kind of binds the two
40:41 pieces together and gives them a little
40:42 bit more
40:54 support I'd screw a couple scrap 2x4s
40:57 onto the roof to give me something to
40:58 stand on while we're putting on the
41:00 upper sheets and a lot of these end
41:02 sheets I would leave a little bit long
41:04 and just trim them off with the trim
41:06 router that I used to cut out the
41:07 windows so i' have an exact
41:15 fit and then we just kept picking away
41:17 sheet after sheet also I never really
41:20 knew this about myself but I absolutely
41:22 hated it up there I don't know if it's
41:23 because it could fall through the
41:25 rafters or just SL off the roof or what
41:27 but this day specifically I absolutely
41:30 hated it up
41:31 there that
41:34 sucked the good news is we're pretty
41:37 much closed in and while there's a lot
41:38 to do for Cosmetics on the exterior yet
41:40 it's actually fully structurally done at
41:43 this point it's right around Labor Day
41:44 and I'm actually waiting on the roof and
41:46 siding and stuff to come in which is
41:47 going to take about four or 5 weeks so
41:49 I'm going to work on some more pressing
41:51 projects for a
41:53 bit and wow that was a quick month so
41:56 the next step is to waterproof the roof
41:58 and this definitely should have been
41:59 done before I took that monthlong break
42:01 but I didn't have the material on hand
42:03 at the start and once I get working on
42:05 something else I really don't quit until
42:07 it's done and I needed a damn solar
42:09 powered car either way the roof plywood
42:12 was fine exposed to the Sun for a few
42:14 weeks so this is some stick down roofing
42:17 membrane and I'm going to be putting a
42:18 metal roof on here so this is a really
42:20 good thick underlay that is actually
42:22 pretty much waterproof just itself
42:24 pretty straightforward how you put this
42:26 on it's just got a plastic film on the
42:28 back that covers up the adhesive so I'd
42:29 just cut a strip to a rough length
42:31 because the rolls are pretty heavy and
42:32 then we'd set that roughly in place on
42:34 the roof and then we' pull back that
42:35 plastic strip to expose the adhesive and
42:38 just press it down as firm as we
42:43 could a couple things to note you
42:45 obviously want to start at the bottom
42:46 and work your layers up so that it's
42:48 layered properly to shed water and for
42:50 any Corners I just make a cut like
42:54 this and then patch on another piece I'd
42:57 also leave enough excess to stick it 3
42:59 or 4 in up the wall like it is here and
43:01 a lot of people are going to say this
43:02 should be tucked in behind the house
43:03 trra but this stuff's really sticky and
43:05 expands when it gets wet and
43:07 Professional Roofers told me this is
43:08 fine so I guess it's fine if you're
43:11 really watching here you'll notice that
43:12 I'm actually stapling down the lower
43:14 portion of this membrane so I actually
43:16 did this on all the sheets that are down
43:18 near where the drip edge is going to be
43:21 I'd actually leave on about 6 in of this
43:23 white plastic on this lower Edge so that
43:25 the drip edge can be slid underneath
43:26 here and then that plastic can be
43:28 removed and stuck on top of the drip
43:30 edge in a perfect world I'd have all the
43:32 materials here for the roof so I could
43:34 start doing it in the next step but
43:35 that's the way it goes when you're
43:36 building big
43:48 stuff now I'm going to start working on
43:50 the sawet and the first thing I have to
43:52 do is just take off these little bits of
43:53 wood that are overhanging past the
43:55 bottom of the fa board so I just use my
43:58 oscillating multi-tool for
44:00 that and then I'm going to square off
44:02 the bottom of these Gables by making a
44:04 bird
44:06 box so I'm just cutting a scrap piece of
44:09 wood with that same 33 and 1 12°
44:18 angle and then measuring it to the size
44:20 I want it to be which is that 5 1/2
44:25 in
44:30 then after I make sure that's sitting
44:32 level I can screw and nail that into
44:34 place with some impeccable
44:44 form then I added in these two pieces of
44:47 wood just to complete the bottom edge of
44:49 this
44:51 box I also added in any more boards that
44:53 I'm going to need for when I have to
44:55 nail in the outfit
45:21 since this is such a small space I
45:22 decided not to compromise on any fine
45:25 details I could on the exterior so for
45:27 the sopit I have this clear Cedar tongue
45:28 and groove paneling this stuff is
45:31 ridiculously expensive like $8 a linear
45:33 foot but in my opinion on a small space
45:36 like this I think it's really worth that
45:37 extra time and money to give it any
45:39 detail that'll make it pop
45:46 out so I first ripped one of these
45:49 boards to the starting width I need and
45:51 then cut it to the
45:54 length
46:00 and then I'm starting at this back end
46:01 because it's always best to start
46:03 somewhere that's not the main focal
46:04 point when you don't know what you're
46:05 doing before I put the S on I just ran
46:08 this wire through here and then ran it
46:09 into the house I'm not hooking it up to
46:11 anything right now I just want this in
46:13 here in case I ever want to add lights
46:14 back here but for right now I'm just
46:16 going to tuck this up in the framing and
46:18 then start nailing on my
46:24 sop
46:39 once again this is a pretty small
46:40 rectangular hose so I decided to get
46:42 pretty detailed with my miter cuts and
46:44 make everything pop as much as
46:47 possible I'd also sand every board with
46:49 15 grip before it goes up because it's a
46:51 lot easier to do this on the
46:54 ground
47:08 so to nail these boards in I'm using a
47:09 15 gauge nailer and in the first board
47:12 I'd put a nail right up against the wall
47:14 as close as possible and then once the
47:16 sing's installed this nail hole will be
47:18 covered and you won't see anything next
47:20 I'd sink a nail on an angle in through
47:22 the tongue of this board and then once
47:24 the next board is installed this nail
47:27 disappears so any middle boards will
47:29 only need those tongue nails but this
47:30 runs only two boards wide so once I got
47:32 to the end I would just sink a nail as
47:34 close to the edge as possible and then
47:36 once the faas cover goes on this will
47:38 also get covered up and there won't be
47:39 any exposed nail
47:43 heads with the back end installed
47:45 without a hitch I'm now more confident
47:47 to do the front
47:49 end so I'm first running a wire along
47:51 here and then all along this one side
47:53 since this is kind of the front face and
47:55 there's definitely going to be some
47:56 lights in
48:09 here so once I got to the middle board
48:11 this board's going to have my first
48:13 light in it so I drilled a 2 and 1/2 in
48:14 hole which is the right size for the pot
48:16 light that I
48:18 have and these are just an indoor
48:20 outdoor pot light and these have a
48:22 gimbal so I can actually angle these
48:24 down
48:31 so after making sure it fits the hole I
48:33 took the board up to install
48:36 it and then I'm not going to go into a
48:38 ton of detail on installing this light
48:40 because I'll do that more on the next
48:41 video where we start closing in the
48:43 inside and I go over all the
48:46 electrical but basically I just pop the
48:48 light into place and then cut this bulge
48:50 of wire I had just run through the Fram
48:52 in here and then I just stripped each of
48:54 those wires back about a/ in or so and
48:57 then it's pretty simple to connect this
48:59 you just connect all the wires with
49:00 these three-way wire connectors all the
49:03 black wires in one all the white wires
49:05 in one and all the ground
49:24 wires before I could extend this down
49:26 the sidewalls I had to cut these pieces
49:28 of 2x4 and just nail them in place along
49:31 the wall level with the bottom of the
49:33 facial board that gave me something to
49:35 nail to on both ends of these short 5in
49:38 pieces after these short pieces get
49:40 closed in with the side in and then the
49:41 overhang of the fascia covering there's
49:43 really only going to be about 3 and 1/2
49:45 in of this exposed and the lumber for
49:47 this offit cost $2,000 which just gives
49:50 you an idea of how much this clear Cedar
49:52 costs Honestly though it is really a
49:54 statement piece in person that's one of
49:56 the first things that most people
49:59 notice a sofit needs to vent to work
50:02 properly so every fourth piece or so I
50:04 made one of these vent pieces so I
50:06 printed up this 3D printed pilot hole
50:08 template and drilled all the pilot holes
50:10 with a small drill bit then I'd used a
50:13 3/8 in forcer bit and just bore out
50:15 every single one of these holes and I
50:17 had to make about 68 of these pieces it
50:19 took about 5 minutes to make each vent
50:21 so yeah that's pretty much a full day of
50:23 drilling these again though all let that
50:25 attention to
50:29 detail with a piece fully drilled out I
50:31 would just staple on a piece of window
50:33 screen onto the backside just so bees
50:35 and bugs can't get
50:54 in I installed four more lights along
50:57 this front side sawet and these are
50:59 slightly different than the other lights
51:00 but they're pretty much the exact same
51:02 idea I just needed something a little
51:04 smaller to fit in this narrow
51:08 Gap with the lights and S installed I
51:10 just use some wire nuts to connect this
51:12 onto an old extension cord and then plug
51:14 this into an AC power source just to see
51:16 if my lights turn
51:18 on and now that's looking pretty
51:22 sweet this Cedar's going to need some
51:24 sort of protective oil but I'm going to
51:26 be doing another Cedar accent piece so
51:27 I'll cover that later
51:37 on so now it's time to start installing
51:40 all of my windows these are all just
51:42 regular house windows with one key
51:44 difference they're all tempered glass
51:46 since this is going to be on the road
51:47 and bouncing around just normal plate
51:49 glass would break pretty easily and
51:51 tempered will be able to stand up to
51:52 those forces so to install these I first
51:55 found one of the window
51:56 openings and then along the side I cut
51:59 just about an inch back from this
52:01 opening same with the bottom in the
52:03 other side and then the top I cut flush
52:05 along the opening then I measured the
52:07 seill which for this window is 29 in and
52:10 then I'm going to cut up a piece of this
52:11 6in flashing tape 6 in longer than that
52:14 measurement so 35 in
52:17 roughly I'd then just stick this onto
52:19 the wall about halfway along the bottom
52:21 of the opening and cut along the edge
52:24 here until I reach this sill and fold
52:26 this part
52:32 over I'd then cut another piece the
52:34 exact same length and install this onto
52:37 the sill instead and fold over onto the
52:46 wall and then normally that'd be good
52:48 for flashing tape but there's actually
52:49 something wrong with my windows so on
52:51 this I'm going to install these strips
52:53 of flashing tape along both vertical
52:54 edges as as
52:59 well so I'm not sure where there was a
53:01 miscommunication when I ordered these
53:02 windows but normally every new build
53:04 window has a little piece of plastic
53:06 that comes off the side of the window
53:08 here with a bunch of holes so you can
53:10 nail it into the wall this is called a
53:12 nailing fin or a nailing flange and
53:14 almost every new window has this
53:15 nowadays so I'm not sure why mine didn't
53:17 come and the company itself offered no
53:19 support at all so that's awesome I'm
53:22 going to show you how I installed my
53:23 windows but it's not going to be a much
53:24 use to many people so I'll do another
53:27 one after this that explains with a more
53:29 traditional
53:30 window so first inside the window
53:32 opening I did install these blocks that
53:34 have the correct spacing that would stop
53:36 the window from going in too far
53:39 normally the nailing flange would do
53:40 that but again you know I'll just
53:42 explain this useless
53:44 information so then I'd use some half
53:46 inch chunks of plywood and then just
53:48 shim them until I could get them
53:50 absolutely as level as possible because
53:52 that's going to save me a lot of work
53:54 later
53:58 so then I'd lift the window into place
54:00 and just kind of make sure it was even
54:01 in both sides of the Gap in the rough
54:04 opening and then with my brother holding
54:06 it snug on the inside I would just check
54:08 the reveal and make sure it was the same
54:09 in all four
54:11 corners I did the same with the level on
54:14 all four sides making sure they're all
54:15 sitting nice and
54:17 level and then I just used some Door and
54:19 Window shims to shim this window
54:24 snug
54:29 on the inside I just took some normal
54:31 deck screws and then went in through
54:32 this Jam extension and screwed in
54:34 straight through the shims to secure the
54:36 window in
54:37 place Windows aren't structural at all
54:39 so these are really only held in with
54:41 about four to six
54:48 screws notice in this clip the shims are
54:50 only along the two sides you never want
54:52 to shim the top or the bottom and then
54:53 depending on the height of the window
54:54 this this one had six shims some of the
54:56 smaller ones would only have four on the
54:59 outside I'd cut away those overhanging
55:02 shims and then the huge problem with
55:04 these windows not having a nailing fin
55:07 was that I'm left with this/ in gap
55:09 around the whole window I could
55:10 literally find no information on filling
55:12 this Gap so I'm just going to do what I
55:14 think will work so I used a bunch of
55:15 flashing tape and I started at the
55:17 bottom and I would just fold this over
55:19 about 3/4 inch onto the frame of the
55:21 window and then stick the rest onto the
55:24 wall so I started with the bottom first
55:27 and then worked up both
55:30 sides online some people suggested using
55:33 a butle cocking to fill this Gap but
55:36 these are pretty wide gaps and have a
55:37 lot of windows so that's more than
55:39 I have to give this
55:43 house once I got to the top I'd cut away
55:46 the house wrap with about a 45° angle
55:48 into both corners of the window and then
55:50 just tape it up out of the way for a few
55:53 minutes and then I'd Flash the top of
55:55 this window the same as I did the three
55:57 other sides again this is really timec
55:59 consuming and it's all because these
56:01 windows don't have a nailing fin so just
56:02 stick around a few minutes I'm going to
56:04 install one that does because there's
56:06 like a
56:07 99.9% chance the windows you get are
56:09 going to have a nailing fin but now with
56:11 those sealed up this window will now be
56:12 the same as any other window so I have
56:14 this piece of metal drip edge and I'm
56:16 just cutting it to the exact width of
56:17 the window and then I'm setting this
56:19 down on top of the frame of the window
56:21 and nailing it in place with some inch
56:23 and a quarter roofing nails
56:30 then I'd bring that house wrap back down
56:32 over top and just use some house wrap
56:34 tape to tape along these
56:40 seams back at the bottom I just use a
56:43 knife to cut in a few of these tiny
56:45 little weat poles just so that if any
56:46 water does get in behind this flashing
56:48 tape it can all drain out at the bottom
56:51 and again that's only for my windows not
56:53 yours
56:55 and that's an installed window that
56:56 should theoretically shed water
57:05 properly okay so real quick before we
57:07 move on I just bought another window
57:08 from Home Depot that has one of these
57:10 nailing fins and I'm just going to show
57:11 you how to install it really quickly so
57:13 that this video pertains to everybody so
57:16 with my window opening Flash the same
57:17 way I did the other window just minus
57:19 those two strips of vertical flashing
57:21 along the two sides that I don't need
57:23 with this window I did the same thing
57:25 blocking the bottom and making sure it
57:27 was
57:28 level and then I'm just taking my window
57:30 and I'm putting a silicone bead around
57:32 the inside of this nailing fin all the
57:33 way around the whole
57:35 window the only place I don't put any is
57:37 I leave a couple 2in gaps along the
57:39 bottom so that any water that gets in
57:41 behind this window can
57:45 escape then I just set the window into
57:48 place and after I make sure it's level I
57:51 just nail this off with about two or
57:53 three nails per side
57:57 then I'll just take some flashing tape
57:58 and I'll put two strips up along the
58:00 sides as well as one across the top
58:04 after this I did the exact same thing
58:05 with that drip edge and then putting the
58:07 house wrap over top and taping up those
58:09 seams this took about one qu of the
58:11 amount of time I probably could have did
58:12 all the windows in one day in my tiny
58:15 house rather than 4 days if they all had
58:17 this nailing fin but anyway no sense
58:19 crying over spilled milk let's just get
58:21 the rest of these windows
58:22 installed so back to that story story I
58:25 was telling like an hour ago about how I
58:26 got started on YouTube at the time I had
58:29 some failing businesses and I was
58:30 basically just building stuff to make
58:32 any extra cash and then filming videos
58:34 in hopes that maybe that would be an
58:35 Avenue to make some money as well I
58:38 literally had a goal to make like
58:39 $22,000 a month a few years down the
58:42 line so that I could at least buy my
58:43 groceries I noticed there was a huge
58:45 void in DIY videos of actual production
58:47 value and you'd be watching something
58:49 trying to figure out how to do it and
58:50 all of a sudden they would skip forward
58:51 in time and miss the step that you
58:54 really needed to know how to do and it's
58:56 that simple idea that I've tried to keep
58:58 ever since trying to explain every
58:59 single step of the way and show people
59:02 that as long as you have resilience it's
59:03 really not that hard to build whatever
59:05 you could imagine to be honest I've done
59:07 almost none of this before I just watch
59:09 YouTube videos every night and figure
59:11 out what I'm doing the next
59:18 day so now it's time to install my front
59:21 door and the funny thing about this door
59:22 is this actually came with a nailing in
59:24 on it and most of the time they don't so
59:26 I don't know what they were smoking at
59:28 this Window Factory but it's certainly
59:29 not the same stuff I
59:33 am so I cut out the house wrap around
59:36 this door opening pretty much the exact
59:37 same way as the window opening there's
59:39 just no bottom on
59:41 it and then I use my multi-tool to cut
59:44 away the bottom Board of this wall and
59:45 the door
59:53 opening
01:00:03 then I just use one strip of flashing
01:00:04 tape along the bottom
01:00:09 here and it didn't really need these but
01:00:11 I added two strips of vertical flashing
01:00:13 because I had done it on all the windows
01:00:19 already now similar to the window I
01:00:21 showed you with the nailing fin I just
01:00:23 use some windows silicone to seal around
01:00:26 this
01:00:28 Fin and then I placed a good thick bead
01:00:30 of silicone along the front edge of that
01:00:32 door pan as well I also use some P
01:00:34 construction adhesive and put a generous
01:00:36 amount along the back side of that door
01:00:40 pan then we can lift the door into
01:00:48 place now working on the inside I had a
01:00:50 good amount of shims on hand because
01:00:51 this is going to take quite a few and
01:00:53 I'm just shimming the door frame frame
01:00:54 as level as I can get
01:01:01 it and then this door came with a whole
01:01:04 bunch of these pre-drilled pockets for
01:01:06 screws so I just shim in Behind These
01:01:09 and then pre-drill a hole for the screws
01:01:11 they send along with the door and screw
01:01:13 those into
01:01:23 place
01:01:25 you also have to shim in behind your
01:01:26 hinges and then screw in these long
01:01:28 screws through the hinges as well a door
01:01:32 obviously takes a lot more abuse and
01:01:34 slamming than a window so there's quite
01:01:35 a few screws that need to go in here two
01:01:37 go into every hinge and then I'd say
01:01:39 there's probably about 10 more that
01:01:40 secure the frame elsewhere this takes
01:01:42 quite a bit of tinkering with shims and
01:01:44 screws but after about 10 or 20 minutes
01:01:46 you should be able to get the door to a
01:01:48 point where it opens and closes as
01:01:49 smooth as possible and doesn't drag on
01:01:51 any of the edges and you should have a
01:01:53 pretty even Gap W around the entire
01:01:58 door with the door all functioning
01:02:01 properly I just put in a roofing nail
01:02:03 into this nailing flange every foot or
01:02:05 so around the frame and then I flashed
01:02:07 up both sides in the top of the
01:02:11 door and added that metal drip edge and
01:02:13 overlap the hosing wrap the same way I
01:02:15 did on the
01:02:22 Windows perfect
01:02:27 now I have some Window and Door
01:02:28 expanding foam and I'm just going around
01:02:30 on the inside filling in all the gaps
01:02:32 between the rough openings and the jams
01:02:34 of the door and
01:02:38 windows this is a pretty easy
01:02:41 self-explanatory task I just had to be
01:02:43 really careful on the windows that I
01:02:44 didn't overfill and the expanding foam
01:02:47 wouldn't bulge out the flashing tape
01:02:48 since I don't have anything rigid like
01:02:50 the nailing fin to hold it back but
01:02:52 again that most likely is not going to
01:02:54 be a concern of
01:03:00 yours and after that cured up for a
01:03:02 couple hours I could take my multi-tool
01:03:03 and just cut away the
01:03:09 shims and use a good sharp utility knife
01:03:11 to cut off all the excess of this
01:03:13 expanding
01:03:23 foam
01:03:31 and hey we're uh starting to look like a
01:03:33 house in here I've literally been
01:03:34 designing this for like 2
01:03:39 years one last step with this door I
01:03:41 just installed a keypad lock and the
01:03:43 handle and these come with directions in
01:03:45 the box so I'm not going to explain you
01:03:46 how to do this cuz this video is already
01:03:49 Way tooing
01:03:53 Long
01:04:02 so now I've just got some normal Cedar
01:04:04 4x4s and I'm going to make up some
01:04:06 timber frame accent piece
01:04:11 things so I'm just cutting up a few
01:04:13 lengths that I need and then I'm just
01:04:15 using my planer just to take maybe a
01:04:17 16th of an inch off of each of these
01:04:20 faces just to give it a nice square look
01:04:21 and not look like it's a Lumberyard 4X
01:04:39 4 then I turn the blade on my table saw
01:04:42 to the 33 and 1/ 12° slope of the
01:04:45 roof and then I'm just taking an edge
01:04:47 off of these
01:04:49 4x4s why I didn't have the fence over an
01:04:51 eighth of an inch so it would have cut
01:04:52 this clean through I don't know I guess
01:04:54 guess I just wanted to use the
01:05:00 handsaw then I use my miter saw just to
01:05:03 cut some nice looking angles off of
01:05:05 these pieces by the way I'm using a 60
01:05:08 to finish cut blade on my miter saw
01:05:10 that'll save you a lot of
01:05:13 work so these two pieces are going to go
01:05:15 together in an l and then I'm going to
01:05:16 have another 45° piece connecting them
01:05:19 so I just measured that
01:05:20 up and then I cut those pieces and fed
01:05:23 them through the planer a bunch of times
01:05:25 until they went down from about 3 and
01:05:26 1/2 in square to 2 and 1/4 in square a
01:05:30 band saw would work better if you have
01:05:31 one but I don't so it really wasn't that
01:05:33 big a deal for a 15-minute
01:05:35 job then I cut these thinner pieces to
01:05:38 length with 45° angles at each
01:05:41 end and it should fit in place here
01:05:44 nicely like
01:05:46 this so after I gave everything a sand
01:05:49 with some 150 grit I started assembling
01:05:52 my two Timber pieces
01:05:54 I decided to do this as simple as
01:05:56 possible because this is like a thousand
01:05:58 step build so I don't want to get any
01:06:00 complicated joinery or anything so I
01:06:03 just pre-drilled some holes and then I'm
01:06:04 just fastening these two main pieces
01:06:06 with some 5in deck
01:06:12 screws then after I made sure it's
01:06:14 squared I marked out the position for
01:06:16 this 45° piece and screwed it in from
01:06:19 the back with some more deck
01:06:23 screws this is just a visual piece it's
01:06:25 not structural at all so these deck
01:06:27 screws are going to be
01:06:35 fine so then I pre-drilled a hole for a
01:06:38 big structural bolt and then use a
01:06:39 forcer bit to make a counter
01:06:44 SN and then I'm going to fasten these
01:06:46 Timber pieces onto the wall using these
01:06:48 structural screws that don't have a
01:06:50 terrible looking head on them because
01:06:52 they're going to be exposed
01:07:07 so I use two of those big structural
01:07:09 screws to screw this into place and then
01:07:11 I just used a few more deck screws in
01:07:13 through the back just to keep the piece
01:07:15 from rotating or
01:07:22 anything and those are some nice little
01:07:25 Timber accent beams
01:07:27 done at this point it's nearly the end
01:07:29 of October and I'm getting pretty
01:07:31 pressed for time here to get this done
01:07:32 before our cold Canadian Winter's set
01:07:37 in so next I'm on to siding and you're
01:07:40 going to notice some of the roof
01:07:41 actually gets put on in the meantime but
01:07:43 I'll cover that later I had to start
01:07:44 kind of combining steps when I could get
01:07:46 help because the winter was coming so I
01:07:49 just have this regular vinyl board and
01:07:51 bat and siding and I have some of this
01:07:53 in white and black but I'll be starting
01:07:55 with the white and the first thing I
01:07:57 need to do is put on these Corner posts
01:07:59 so for this siding company specifically
01:08:01 I had to measure Out 3 in on both sides
01:08:03 of the
01:08:04 corner at the top and bottom of the wall
01:08:07 then I just tacked a nail on one of
01:08:09 these ticks up at the top and use my
01:08:11 chalk line to pull that down and line it
01:08:14 up with the line at the bottom and just
01:08:16 snap myself a nice straight
01:08:22 line
01:08:25 then I had to measure my corner post to
01:08:27 length and then I cut it out using some
01:08:29 Aviation
01:08:33 Snips this stuff can be a little tricky
01:08:36 to cut because of all the complex curves
01:08:38 and bends but you can just cut pieces
01:08:40 out of the scrap side of the piece and
01:08:42 then that makes it a lot easier to get
01:08:44 your shears in
01:08:49 there but in the end the bottom of the
01:08:51 piece looks something like
01:08:52 this
01:08:56 then I just brought that corner post
01:08:58 over onto the corner of my tiny house
01:09:00 and lined it up with my chalk lines on
01:09:02 each side I'd use a roofing nail and the
01:09:05 first nail I'd put at the very top of
01:09:07 this nailing slot this just holds the
01:09:09 post up tight against this sfit and
01:09:11 allows any expansion to expand downwards
01:09:14 and then all the rest of the nails I put
01:09:16 right in the center of the
01:09:18 slot with siding you also don't nail it
01:09:20 completely tight with these trim pieces
01:09:23 I'm nailing them so that there's just
01:09:24 the ever so slightest amount of play in
01:09:31 them and you should be able to wiggle it
01:09:33 a little bit underneath every single
01:09:35 nail head you don't want to nail
01:09:37 anything tight with s in because it
01:09:39 contracts and expands with the heat so
01:09:41 you'll always want a little bit of room
01:09:43 for it to move with these trim
01:09:45 pieces the next piece of trim I used and
01:09:48 the piece that gets used to trim almost
01:09:50 everything else is called J trim because
01:09:52 it looks like a j so so along the bottom
01:09:54 I'd snap another straight line at the
01:09:56 height I needed it
01:10:00 at and then I'd tack in my J trim at one
01:10:03 end and then starting from the other end
01:10:05 I would just sink a nail every foot or
01:10:07 so riding that J channel as level on
01:10:10 that line as I
01:10:12 could again I put these nails all in the
01:10:14 center of the nailing slots and left
01:10:16 them just slightly loose so it can
01:10:17 wiggle back and forth a little
01:10:22 bit
01:10:28 this vertical to horizontal transition
01:10:30 has a certain way everything needs cut
01:10:31 to shed the water properly and it's
01:10:33 actually the exact same way you trim the
01:10:35 windows which I'm going to cover in a
01:10:36 couple minutes so you can apply that
01:10:38 information here I also could spend
01:10:40 probably 45 minutes on covering the
01:10:42 siding alone I'm kind of condensing this
01:10:44 so this isn't a 6-hour long video but
01:10:47 I'll put a couple links in the
01:10:48 description below of videos I use to
01:10:49 learn how to side because of course this
01:10:51 is my first time siding
01:10:55 with the jtrim installed along the
01:10:56 bottom of an entire wall I'd just take a
01:10:58 3/16 inch drill bit and just drill some
01:11:00 wheat poles every 18 in or
01:11:07 so so the siding panels need trim on
01:11:10 every single edge so I'm also trimming
01:11:12 up around the top here and again this is
01:11:14 going to use the exact same Concepts
01:11:16 that I'm going to show you trimming out
01:11:17 a window in a minute or two or three or
01:11:20 five this a sixth day of editing driving
01:11:23 me crazy
01:11:26 by the way maybe 6 hour long videos are
01:11:28 something you're interested in or maybe
01:11:30 15 minute long I don't know let me know
01:11:32 in the comments below what you think if
01:11:34 this is the right length or too long or
01:11:36 Too Short or what you're thinking I just
01:11:38 want to know you
01:11:42 guys so to trim out a window or really
01:11:45 anything else you always start at the
01:11:46 bottom first and I'd measure the width
01:11:49 of our window and then I'd add on an
01:11:51 inch and a half to account for the 3/4
01:11:53 in inch wide J trim that's going to be
01:11:55 on each side so then I'd cut this line
01:11:58 Square using some Aviation
01:12:01 Snips and then I just use a scrap piece
01:12:04 of J trim here to Mark a cut line on
01:12:06 both ends of my
01:12:09 piece then I'd use my Snips again and
01:12:11 make two cuts along the corners here and
01:12:14 then bend this tab back and cut it
01:12:19 off then this piece should sit in place
01:12:22 on the bottom of the window like this
01:12:23 this with the two cutout openings lining
01:12:25 up perfectly with the edge of the window
01:12:28 then I'll just nail in this piece
01:12:29 Loosely for now and measure up the side
01:12:31 pieces I'd do the same thing as the
01:12:33 bottom piece measuring the height of the
01:12:35 window and then adding on that inch and
01:12:37 a half to account for the face of the J
01:12:39 channel at each end and then the top end
01:12:41 I'd cut the exact same as I did that
01:12:43 bottom piece and the bottom end I'd cut
01:12:46 almost the exact same i' just bend that
01:12:48 tab over and then I wouldn't cut it
01:12:52 off
01:12:54 and then I'd just make a roughly 45° cut
01:12:58 on the face of the
01:13:00 jtrim this tab then slides inside that
01:13:03 bottom piece of J trim and the miter
01:13:05 covers up that seam
01:13:06 nicely I also to paint in the cut off
01:13:09 corners of these windows black later I'm
01:13:10 not sure why they had to be cut off but
01:13:12 if they did why were they not at least
01:13:21 black so I just t the two side pieces in
01:13:24 place with a couple of
01:13:31 nails for the top piece both ends are
01:13:34 cut with that exact same cut I just did
01:13:36 with the tab bent over and the 45° miter
01:13:40 also if it's not sitting quite flush on
01:13:42 top of the window and has a little bit
01:13:43 of an air gap you can just trim down
01:13:45 those side vertical pieces a little bit
01:13:47 until that top piece of J trim sits on
01:13:49 there snug then I'd go around nailing in
01:13:51 all that J trim in about 1 foot
01:13:53 increments and here's a good clip of how
01:13:55 that bent over tab kind of seals up that
01:13:58 gap between the two pieces of trim and
01:14:00 allows as little water as possible to go
01:14:05 through and that's how you trim a window
01:14:07 for siding and the same way you have
01:14:09 trim pretty much everything else on here
01:14:11 siding will never be 100% waterproof and
01:14:13 there's always hose wrap to catch
01:14:15 anything that does make it through the
01:14:16 little
01:14:22 gaps now with a few walls trimmed I'm
01:14:24 pretty much ready to start installing
01:14:26 siding
01:14:35 panels so the first thing I need to do
01:14:37 with a fresh panel is just measure the
01:14:39 width I needed at and then rip this
01:14:42 lengthwise this is going to be my
01:14:43 starter strip that begins the Run of a
01:14:52 wall
01:15:08 so after I check that that fits with
01:15:10 about a/2 inch of play up and down I've
01:15:12 have take this out so that I can install
01:15:14 some of the seill trim the purpose of
01:15:17 this s trim is to hold this cut Edge in
01:15:19 place and not allow it to Flap around in
01:15:21 the wind or anything like that
01:15:24 so I installed a strip of this raid on
01:15:25 the inside of this corner post pushing
01:15:28 it in as far as it would
01:15:30 go and again I nailed it pretty snug but
01:15:33 not too tight so it still has about a/2
01:15:36 in of vertical play in
01:15:46 it now before I install that starter
01:15:48 piece I'm just using the snap loock
01:15:50 punch to punch a tab every 2 feet or so
01:15:57 and then just sliding that in place
01:15:58 inside of that s
01:16:01 trim after I made sure that piece was
01:16:04 level I nailed it off every 16 in or
01:16:07 so and then continued adding
01:16:18 pieces to make an angle cut I'd just
01:16:20 measure my one side measurement and then
01:16:22 using my speed square I would just turn
01:16:24 it on this Mark using it as the pivot
01:16:26 point until it was at about that 33 1/
01:16:29 12° slope of the
01:16:31 roof then I just mark this line and cut
01:16:34 this out using my Aviation
01:16:41 Snips then I could slide this panel into
01:16:44 place and interlock it with the panel
01:16:46 next to it and then I just want to make
01:16:48 sure there's about a 3/8 to half an inch
01:16:50 play in this panel up and down because
01:16:53 cuz it's only about 8° out when I'm
01:16:54 filming this and it's going to expand
01:16:56 quite a lot once it's about
01:16:58 35 these panels I'm nailing quite a bit
01:17:00 looser than the trim and they should be
01:17:02 easily able to play up and down I'd
01:17:05 generally start nailing up at the top
01:17:07 and I would just push it right up to the
01:17:08 top of the J trim and then drop at about
01:17:10 an E8 in then put my first nail right at
01:17:12 the top of that first full nailing slot
01:17:15 all the rest of the nails along the
01:17:16 panel are in the center of each nailing
01:17:18 slot and about 16 in
01:17:22 apart
01:17:30 once I got to the last piece of a wall I
01:17:32 had to install another piece of that se
01:17:34 trim to catch the cut
01:17:37 Edge and then I'd just slide that last
01:17:40 piece into place and this one actually
01:17:41 doesn't have any nails in it at
01:17:52 all
01:17:53 I also added in a bunch of these
01:17:54 exterior receptacles so first inside I
01:17:57 would just drill through on the corner
01:17:59 of a stud and then I'd find that drill
01:18:02 hole on the outside and put up this
01:18:03 piece of the receptacle to trace the cut
01:18:07 hole and then I'd just cut that out with
01:18:09 my
01:18:13 multi-tool then I just nail in this side
01:18:15 in shoud that came with the recepticle
01:18:17 and this just replaces the jtrim I'd
01:18:18 have to put around it
01:18:21 otherwise and then I can just use some
01:18:23 host wrap tape to tape up the sides and
01:18:25 then overlap that flap of host wrap back
01:18:28 over top and tape it
01:18:29 down I just installed the boxes right
01:18:32 now I didn't install the actual
01:18:33 receptacles I'll cover that once we do
01:18:35 the inside in the next
01:18:46 video around doors or Windows or
01:18:48 anything else that interrupted a full
01:18:50 panel I would just take a tight
01:18:52 measurement and then subtract about a/4
01:18:54 to 3/8 of an inch depending on the
01:18:56 temperature this will leave a nice size
01:18:58 Gap around every obstruction and give
01:19:00 that pan lots of room to expand still
01:19:03 that Sil trim also gets installed along
01:19:05 the sides of any longer vertical cutouts
01:19:07 like the sides of the
01:19:09 windows by the way I'm about to hit a
01:19:11 million subscribers which is absolutely
01:19:14 insane I want to thank every single one
01:19:15 of you for that like I said earlier
01:19:17 building this tiny house was kind of the
01:19:19 reason I started doing YouTube in the
01:19:21 first place I wanted to have a little
01:19:22 bit of a following by the time I built
01:19:24 it but I never imagined it would be a
01:19:26 million people and I got lots of cool
01:19:28 ideas still left in the tank after this
01:19:30 so if you haven't hit the Subscribe
01:19:32 button do that
01:19:35 now and now my roof finally arrives so
01:19:37 we can start putting that on by the way
01:19:39 I know I said earlier on that the main
01:19:41 rule of this channel is to describe
01:19:43 every single step in good detail and
01:19:46 unfortunately I'm going to have to bend
01:19:47 that rule a little bit with this roof in
01:19:49 section because I didn't really know
01:19:50 what I was doing so I had a couple
01:19:52 friends that are roofers helped me put
01:19:53 it on I'll still explain roughly what
01:19:55 we're doing but I decided to just learn
01:19:57 on this one and then in a future project
01:19:59 where I'm doing a metal roof I can do a
01:20:00 more full tutorial then so we're first
01:20:03 installing the drip edge along all the
01:20:05 lower edges of the
01:20:12 roof and this is why I left some of the
01:20:14 white plastic on the bottom of this roof
01:20:15 underlay so that I could lift it up out
01:20:17 of the way to screw in the drip edge and
01:20:19 then we can pull that white plastic off
01:20:21 and then stick this underlay right down
01:20:23 on top of the drip
01:20:28 edge and then we installed this Gable
01:20:30 Edge trim and cut a nice miter where
01:20:32 they met and by we I mean Joel did
01:20:51 everything
01:21:02 then we had to install the starter trim
01:21:04 around all the points where the roof met
01:21:06 into the
01:21:21 wall
01:21:26 and that's all the trim done on one
01:21:27 Saturday and the next Saturday they came
01:21:29 over to help me put on the
01:21:43 panels so these are pretty
01:21:45 straightforward to install once the
01:21:46 trims all installed they really just
01:21:48 snap together and the next sheet always
01:21:50 covers up the previous sheet screws
01:21:59 we also had to prep every sheet by
01:22:01 cutting off about an inch of these ribs
01:22:03 and capping them and then bending around
01:22:06 this bottom portion of the sheet so it
01:22:07 would hook onto the drip
01:22:20 edge we also had done stall that
01:22:28 Skylight and they did all of this I have
01:22:31 no idea what they did so we're going to
01:22:32 have to wait for another video for me to
01:22:34 describe to you how to install a
01:22:36 skylight cuz I have noing
01:22:51 idea
01:23:06 you hear that
01:23:14 sound with all the sheets installed we
01:23:16 had to install the ridge cap and I
01:23:18 messed up and ordered these sheets a
01:23:20 couple inches too short so we had to get
01:23:22 in a way bigger ridge cap to cover that
01:23:24 up but first we had to stick these foam
01:23:26 sealer things onto the
01:23:30 ribs and cut away a bit of that underlay
01:23:33 so that the roof can
01:23:35 vent then we put the ridge cap into
01:23:37 place and started screwing it into place
01:23:39 into each
01:23:51 rib
01:23:58 and now that's a finished standing seam
01:24:00 metal roof again I wish I had more
01:24:03 detail to give you on this but I'm only
01:24:04 as good as the YouTube videos that
01:24:06 already exists and there wasn't much on
01:24:08 installing standing seam roof so we'll
01:24:10 save it for the next
01:24:20 one so now I still this one side wall
01:24:23 that hasn't been sided yet and we just
01:24:26 had our first snowfall of the
01:24:33 season so I didn't put any side in on
01:24:35 this wall yet because I'm going to be
01:24:37 building uh Cedar accent piece along
01:24:39 this three window stretch here so I'm
01:24:42 just measuring out the lines I'm going
01:24:44 to need to start the trim for this
01:24:46 piece and then I could really only
01:24:48 measure the top section so I have this
01:24:50 laser level and I'm going to line it up
01:24:52 with that Top
01:24:57 Line and then just make a couple ticks
01:24:59 along this line and extend it down onto
01:25:01 the lower portion of this
01:25:12 wall so now I have these clear cedar
01:25:15 2x4s and these are sitting at an inch
01:25:17 and 1 half
01:25:21 thick but I'm I'm just going to take a
01:25:22 few passes off the backside with my
01:25:33 planer and bring that down to an inch
01:25:36 and a quar this is just how far I wanted
01:25:38 it to stick out from the wall for no
01:25:40 real reason other than that's what I
01:25:45 determined then I cut my first piece to
01:25:51 length
01:25:53 and then I'm going to be screwing this
01:25:54 into the wall so I'm measuring out some
01:25:56 screw
01:25:57 placement just to make it look pretty
01:25:59 and
01:26:00 precise and then I'm using a 3/8 in
01:26:03 forer bit to counter sync these holes
01:26:05 about halfway into the board I just put
01:26:08 anywhere from two to four in each board
01:26:10 depending on the
01:26:18 length now I can just line the edge of
01:26:20 this board up with that vertical line I
01:26:26 drew and just trim this piece
01:26:36 out around the corner I just used
01:26:38 another chunk of that same piece of 2x4
01:26:40 so the color matches and glued it onto
01:26:43 that edge and screwed it into the
01:26:46 wall after this gets a light sand in in
01:26:48 a later step you'll barely even see this
01:26:51 scene
01:26:54 and I just ripped a thinner section in
01:26:56 2x4 and used a 8 in round over bit in my
01:26:59 rotor just to soften that square
01:27:06 Edge I also roted out a few of these
01:27:09 grooves in the back side of the board
01:27:10 because these are going to be horizontal
01:27:12 so that when water gets in behind here
01:27:13 it can still escape from behind the
01:27:19 wood and then I just finish nailed these
01:27:22 smaller pieces into place now I don't
01:27:24 have a drill press but I have a buddy
01:27:26 that has one that looks like he uses it
01:27:28 a
01:27:29 lot and then I have these 38 in dowel
01:27:32 cutting drill bits and then I'm just
01:27:34 going to use this to drill press a bunch
01:27:36 of dowels out of those same chunks at
01:27:43 2x4s then you can just break off the
01:27:47 dowel and I just put a little bit of
01:27:49 glue in these counter sunk screw holes
01:27:52 and then maded the dowel into place I'll
01:27:54 come back later and cut these off and
01:27:55 sand them and you'll barely even see
01:27:57 them I also just cut up some scrap 2x4s
01:28:00 into some Quin sections to be some
01:28:02 furring
01:28:06 strips and these just raise out that
01:28:08 tongue and groove panel in an extra 1/
01:28:09 quar inch to get them at the reveal I
01:28:11 wanted them
01:28:14 at and now I can start installing a
01:28:17 bunch more clear Cedar tongue and
01:28:21 groove
01:28:24 I started at the bottom with the tongue
01:28:26 going upwards and then each layer would
01:28:28 just get set in place on top of the
01:28:30 last and I'd use my 15 gauge nailer to
01:28:33 nail in through every furring strip in
01:28:35 through that tongue again then once the
01:28:37 next board goes into place those Nails
01:28:46 disappear to go around a window as exact
01:28:48 as possible I'd set the board in place
01:28:51 and then Mark the edge of the
01:28:54 window then I just measure up that gap
01:28:57 for how far it needs to be cut back and
01:28:59 then Mark that out and cut it out with
01:29:00 my
01:29:12 jigsaw and that was a pretty satisfying
01:29:15 day of work I absolutely love the way
01:29:18 this looks with no knots or no exposed
01:29:20 Nails it's super clean
01:29:24 oh and back to those dowels I just use
01:29:26 my multi-tool to cut off most of a
01:29:30 dowel and then I use some 150 grit
01:29:33 sandpaper to finish sand
01:29:36 that it cost me a couple Grand just to
01:29:39 do this little piece but it's literally
01:29:41 what everybody talks about as soon as
01:29:42 they come up and talk to me about it and
01:29:45 a lot of people do while I was filming
01:29:46 this if it was a nice sunny day I would
01:29:48 have probably five or six people stop in
01:29:50 every day and talk to me and this took a
01:29:51 while while to film you know like 2 and
01:29:53 A2 months or so lots of curious people
01:29:55 out
01:29:57 there the next day I protected this wood
01:30:00 piece with some osmo UV protection oil
01:30:04 and pretty self-explanatory I just
01:30:05 brushed this on also this is a brand new
01:30:08 song My Band just put out so I'm just
01:30:10 going to let this play for a bit while I
01:30:12 finish up a bunch more of these details
01:30:14 and hey you might recognize this guy's
01:30:17 voice to
01:30:20 reveal it's world
01:30:25 and I
01:30:27 feel and I feel right hold yourself in a
01:30:33 state of grief I want to show you
01:30:36 something now wish you could keep Lo
01:30:47 L with one coat applied the stuff needs
01:30:50 at least two so the next next day I came
01:30:52 back and sanded it with a 220 grit
01:30:54 sanding block and then applied the
01:30:56 second
01:30:57 coat this is also the same stuff I used
01:31:00 to seal up all the cedar s it quite a
01:31:02 while
01:31:15 ago with that done I can start finishing
01:31:18 up the S and doing all the other
01:31:19 Finishing
01:31:20 Touches
01:31:50 aah
01:31:52 the
01:31:54 only
01:31:56 thing I
01:31:58 feel is the
01:32:01 beace it
01:32:05 holds where I
01:32:07 sleep in
01:32:10 the the
01:32:13 only
01:32:14 thing I
01:32:17 Fe is the
01:32:20 Beast the hope
01:32:24 oh where I
01:32:26 sleep in the
01:32:29 BL well I
01:32:32 sleep well I
01:32:34 sleep well I
01:32:43 sleep by the way if you like that song
01:32:45 it's available on Apple music Spotify
01:32:47 everything else and it was actually
01:32:49 written right here in this shop
01:32:52 so now after a long 2 and 1/2 months I'm
01:32:54 finally on to my last step of this build
01:32:56 or at least the
01:32:59 exterior so this is just some regular
01:33:02 6-in aluminum fascia
01:33:09 cap with the first piece here I'm just
01:33:11 marking a 1in tick and then cutting this
01:33:13 up on only that lower bent over
01:33:17 section then I can score this tab with a
01:33:20 knife and just wiggle it until it pops
01:33:21 pops
01:33:26 off and then using a square I scored
01:33:28 another line along the back side of the
01:33:30 fascia right along that 1 in Mark and
01:33:32 then just used a hand breake to bend
01:33:34 that up to
01:33:39 90° and now that's a good little end cap
01:33:42 that we can use to start our run of
01:33:43 fascia to install this I just wiggled
01:33:46 this up right underneath the drip edge
01:33:48 until it was flush with the
01:33:50 sopit and then this just gets nailed in
01:33:52 every couple feet along that bottom Edge
01:33:55 I'm using aluminum trim nails for this
01:33:56 and I found it easier to actually
01:33:58 pre-drill the fascia first because it's
01:34:00 easy to ding the fascia
01:34:08 otherwise and then I just started
01:34:10 working away panel after
01:34:20 panel
01:34:29 where pieces overlap I'd give them about
01:34:31 an inch of overlap and then just put a
01:34:34 nail right up through both
01:34:37 sheets once I got to the end of the Run
01:34:39 I'd make another piece with one of those
01:34:41 1-in bent over end
01:34:50 caps
01:34:52 to start the Gable ends I'd first
01:34:54 measure out the bird box as well as the
01:34:56 vertical portion up to the S
01:34:58 there and then I'd transfer this on to
01:35:01 just a scrap piece of fascia I'd also
01:35:03 make a mark an inch further so I can
01:35:05 bend it around the corner and make a
01:35:07 mark at the 1in point so starting at the
01:35:09 1in point I would just cut off this bent
01:35:11 over tab here and then make a 45°
01:35:16 miter then I'd cut my cut line and cut
01:35:19 just the bottom portion of this Bend
01:35:20 line
01:35:33 then I'd use my Square to score a line
01:35:35 along that bend line and use a handbrake
01:35:37 to bend that over
01:35:44 90° then I just transferred on that
01:35:46 second vertical measurement I took and
01:35:49 cut along the bend to this point and
01:35:50 then just bend this over roughly to the
01:35:52 slope of the
01:35:58 roof then this cap just slides over the
01:36:01 end and I just put one tack in it for
01:36:09 now for the next piece I just measured
01:36:12 from the bottom end of that Peak down
01:36:13 into the corner of the bird box there
01:36:16 and then Mark this out on a fresh
01:36:18 sheet so my peak's at 86 in but I'm
01:36:21 going to put another tick 1 in further
01:36:23 and then I'm using my Square to get that
01:36:25 same 33 and 1/ 12° slope of the roof and
01:36:28 then I'm going to cut this line on the
01:36:30 bottom side I cut that inch back
01:36:33 line and then just scored these two
01:36:35 pieces
01:36:40 apart where this piece overlaps with the
01:36:42 bird box I just cut up this bottom Mark
01:36:45 and then scored this tab
01:36:50 off
01:36:56 so I left this piece a couple inches
01:36:58 long and then I'm just going to trace
01:37:00 this
01:37:00 Edge and I just have this tack nailed at
01:37:03 the top so I can actually pull this
01:37:04 bottom part out and then cut this
01:37:09 line and then with everything looking
01:37:11 pretty flush I can just nail this into
01:37:13 place like
01:37:20 so
01:37:25 the next piece is made almost the exact
01:37:27 same way I just made the angle cut right
01:37:28 on the measurement this time not an inch
01:37:31 further and then those two pieces should
01:37:33 meet right in the middle of this peak
01:37:35 with that first piece being cut an inch
01:37:36 longer I still have that inch overlap
01:37:38 here
01:37:40 too and then these last two pieces are
01:37:42 made the exact same way I just had to
01:37:44 score that bottom edge off a little bit
01:37:46 further where these pieces overlap the
01:37:48 lower
01:37:50 fascia
01:38:08 and that's the last step of this build
01:38:10 after watching the seasons change from
01:38:12 the middle of summer to the beginning of
01:38:14 winter and challenging my construction
01:38:16 ability for 2 and 1/2 months 10 hours a
01:38:18 day the exterior of my tiny house and by
01:38:21 far the nicest thing I've ever built is
01:38:23 now fully
01:38:25 complete by the way if you watch the
01:38:27 entire 1 hour and 38 minutes of this
01:38:29 build you are my
01:38:50 hero
01:39:15 so the final dimensions of this
01:39:17 including the overhangs is 12 ft wide
01:39:20 and about 15t 10 high with these
01:39:22 Dimensions it can be held pretty much
01:39:24 anywhere with just a wide load permit
01:39:26 I'm not sure the weight but I wouldn't
01:39:27 think it's anything more than 6 or 7,000
01:39:30 lb right now in total to get me to this
01:39:33 point it's cost about $65,000 Canadian
01:39:36 inside it's got just over 300 Square ft
01:39:39 and a little more once I had a
01:39:48 loft obviously I'm still pretty far away
01:39:50 from living in this but I'm going to be
01:39:51 tackling the inside in some of my next
01:39:53 videos oh and I'm still designing that
01:39:55 so if you have any really cool ideas for
01:39:57 the inside leave them in the comments
01:40:01 below as you can tell by the length and
01:40:03 the amount of detail I put my heart and
01:40:05 soul into every single one of my videos
01:40:07 and I absolutely love making them for
01:40:08 you this video contains over 2,000
01:40:11 separate clips and 4 terab of footage it
01:40:15 was shot working fulltime for 2 and 1/2
01:40:17 months using only my camera and a tripod
01:40:20 I edited this whole video myself and it
01:40:21 took another 2 weeks just to complete
01:40:23 the video and my point in this is
01:40:26 basically hit that subscribe
01:40:28 button I really hope I inspired some
01:40:30 people to think outside the box when it
01:40:32 comes to housing especially in today's
01:40:34 world where it feels like it's
01:40:35 impossible to get ahead believe me I
01:40:37 know the feeling that's the whole reason
01:40:39 this YouTube channel started in the
01:40:40 first place but now I'm one step closer
01:40:43 to moving out of my parents
01:40:45 basement if you enjoyed this video you
01:40:47 can also follow me on my Instagram I'm
01:40:49 going to be doing some giveaways on
01:40:50 there that aren't going to be announced
01:40:51 on YouTube so that's the place to hear
01:40:53 about
01:41:19 them
💫 FAQs about This YouTube Video
1. What is the first step in the process of building a house with no fixed location?
The first step in the process of building a house with no fixed location is to start with a custom-built trailer specifically made for tiny homes.
2. How is the trailer for the tiny house customized for the build?
The trailer for the tiny house is customized by cutting off a couple of stabilizer jack receivers to create the front end of the tiny house where the door is located.
3. What type of insulation is used to insulate the floor of the tiny house?
2-inch rigid foam insulation is used to insulate the floor of the tiny house, providing an insulation rating of R-25.
4. What is the reason for using clear cedar tongue and groove paneling for the soffit of the tiny house?
The clear cedar tongue and groove paneling is used for the soffit of the tiny house to provide a detailed and aesthetically pleasing finish to the exterior.
5. How is the process of waterproofing the roof of the tiny house carried out?
The waterproofing of the roof is done using a stick-down roofing membrane, ensuring a durable and watertight finish for the tiny house.
6. What is the process of installing the clear cedar soffit and accent pieces on the tiny house exterior?
The process of installing the clear cedar soffit and accent pieces on the tiny house exterior involves cutting and installing the clear cedar boards, creating trim pieces, sanding, sealing with UV protection oil, and adding finishing touches to complete the exterior look of the tiny house.
7. How are the clear cedar boards installed for the soffit and accent pieces on the tiny house exterior?
The clear cedar boards for the soffit and accent pieces are installed by cutting them to size, creating trim pieces, sanding, sealing with UV protection oil, and adding finishing touches to complete the exterior look of the tiny house. The installation process includes precise measurements and careful nailing to ensure a professional and visually appealing finish.
8. What are the key steps in creating the clear cedar soffit and accent pieces for the tiny house exterior?
The key steps in creating the clear cedar soffit and accent pieces for the tiny house exterior include cutting the cedar boards to size, crafting trim pieces, sanding the wood, applying UV protection oil for sealing, and adding finishing touches. Careful attention to detail and precision is crucial in achieving the desired aesthetic for the exterior of the tiny house.
9. What is the importance of sanding and sealing the clear cedar soffit and accent pieces on the tiny house exterior?
Sanding and sealing the clear cedar soffit and accent pieces on the tiny house exterior are important for enhancing the wood's natural beauty, providing protection against the elements, and ensuring longevity. The sanding process smooths the surface, while the UV protection oil helps seal the wood and protect it from sun damage and weathering, ultimately contributing to the overall aesthetic and durability of the exterior.
10. How does the installation of clear cedar soffit and accent pieces contribute to the overall aesthetic of the tiny house exterior?
The installation of clear cedar soffit and accent pieces contributes significantly to the overall aesthetic of the tiny house exterior by adding natural warmth, texture, and visual interest. The rich tones and grain patterns of the cedar wood enhance the exterior appearance, creating a charming and inviting look for the tiny house. Additionally, the precise craftsmanship and attention to detail in the installation process further elevate the aesthetic appeal of the exterior.
11. What are the dimensions of the completed tiny house?
The final dimensions of the completed tiny house, including the overhangs, are 12 feet wide and about 15 feet 10 inches high.
12. How much did it cost to build the tiny house?
The total cost to build the tiny house was approximately $65,000 Canadian dollars.
13. What is the size of the interior space of the tiny house?
The interior of the tiny house is just over 300 square feet, with a little more space once a loft is added.
14. How long did it take to complete the construction of the tiny house?
The construction of the tiny house took 2 and 1/2 months, with 10 hours of work per day.
15. Who is the creator of the YouTube video showcasing the construction of the tiny house?
The creator of the YouTube video showcasing the construction of the tiny house is the same person who designed and built the tiny house.
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